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Routes in Upper Wall
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Battle of the Bulge T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Better than Streaking T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Lengthy Line T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Prissy Prancin' T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Slot T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Streakers T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Streaking TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tetherly Designs T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tower Dogs T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Valley Boys T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Valley Girls (Crack right) T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | Lincoln Tetherly |
| Page Views: | 758 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Oct 18, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
This is a pleasant route up the middle of the crag that suddenly gets tricky at the top.
You can start from the left in a wide crack or scamper around from the right past a stack of rocks (cairn?) to the cleft below the 1st bolt. A #3 Camalot-size piece can ease the mind to clip the 1st bolt, although it isn't too tough. Move right onto the face. Angle left to a ledge. Clip the bolt and get small cams in the crack. At the top, the feet get iffy and a high left step is in order. The 2 bolt anchor is to the right.
If for some reason you want to chimney left of the 1st bolt, you can get a #4 Camalot in that slot before the 2nd bolt.
The rating I gave may reflect the left shoulder discomfort I've had of late.
You can start from the left in a wide crack or scamper around from the right past a stack of rocks (cairn?) to the cleft below the 1st bolt. A #3 Camalot-size piece can ease the mind to clip the 1st bolt, although it isn't too tough. Move right onto the face. Angle left to a ledge. Clip the bolt and get small cams in the crack. At the top, the feet get iffy and a high left step is in order. The 2 bolt anchor is to the right.
If for some reason you want to chimney left of the 1st bolt, you can get a #4 Camalot in that slot before the 2nd bolt.
The rating I gave may reflect the left shoulder discomfort I've had of late.
Protection
2 bolts, optional #2 & #3 Camalots, #1 TCU, and a red Alien fit the crack.
Per Jay Eggleston: there are now biners at the anchor for lowering.
Per Jay Eggleston: there are now biners at the anchor for lowering.
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