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Deb steps into the crux crack section.
|Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>|
This is a pleasant route up the middle of the crag that suddenly gets tricky at the top.
You can start from the left in a wide crack or scamper around from the right past a stack of rocks (cairn?) to the cleft below the 1st bolt. A #3 Camalot-size piece can ease the mind to clip the 1st bolt, although it isn't too tough. Move right onto the face. Angle left to a ledge. Clip the bolt and get small cams in the crack. At the top, the feet get iffy and a high left step is in order. The 2 bolt anchor is to the right.
If for some reason you want to chimney left of the 1st bolt, you can get a #4 Camalot in that slot before the 2nd bolt.
The rating I gave may reflect the left shoulder discomfort I've had of late.
This ascends an inset face in the middle of the crag.
2 bolts, optional #2 & #3 Camalots, #1 TCU and red Alien fit the crack.
Lincoln of the FA of Tetherly Designs.
BETA PHOTO: The crux crack area.
By Jay Eggleston
May 14, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The crux on this is really short, maybe one move. I used a #1 and a #1.5 Friend in the cracks near the top. This is short yet amusing. This shares an anchor with Battle of the Bulge.