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Mike Wilson first 5.8 of the season 2013. Super fu...
The first crux is low down up to the first bolt. Stay true to the face and don't stray into the crack on the left.
After the first bolt wander up the face to the break and mid height. After the break the steeper climbing on the face above has some fun moves in a nice exposed position.
Middle of the north face
8 bolts, double rap rings
Local gal Susanna climbing this 5.8 tower at Casa ...
BETA PHOTO: North Face Topo
Aug 3, 2012
To get to the first bolt, I have always stayed in the crack. After clipped, I have still stayed in the crack until you can step over on the face and clip the second bolt. My favorite route at the crag! Sustained for the grade and great holds and rock quality!
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Aug 24, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
getting to the 1st bolt is definitely the crux (and there is some decking potential), if you stay on the face (out of the crack on the left). i would call those first few moves solid 5.9, harder than the 5.9 route to the right (which is more sustained). what's up with the funky cold shut configuration up on top?