Unknown Buttress Rock Climbing
This area is the section of cliff below the ramp. It is bounded on the left by the dark, normally vegetated, left-facing corner of "Unknown Gully", and is almost 50m high at this point. To the right, is the awesome arete of "New Horizons", and the area continues onto the front face of the ramp.
The Unknown Buttress is host to one of the gorge's most popular E1s: "M1", as well as the classic test piece "Ladder of Desire" (E3 5c).
From the Sea Walls car park walk left and, instead of up the ramp, continue walking around the base. The Unknown Buttress is now on your right
Climbing Season For the England area.
Weather station 1.9 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Unknown Buttress
Hocus Pocus 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Europe
: United Kingdom
: ... : Unknown Buttress
The wall between New Horizons and M1 is taken direct by this classic route. The first pitch is technically demanding, but protected by good in-situ gear. Pitch 2 lacks a well-defined line, being more a 'line of least resistance'. While technically easier, the rock is harder to read and route-finding could be problematic for some.Start beneath the thin, right-trending crack between the arete and the left-facing corner. Gain the crack (small wires) and follow it to a ledge at about 8m. Step right ...[more] Browse More Classics in International