|Upper Falls - Ice
As easy as WI4- (ice is fat, using the Pencil start), to as hard as M6 (yellow version) or M7 (green version) with verglas ice conditions and a short curtain. Thin ice: *** Fat ice: * Medium ice: *, but scary as hell.
Starts: 1) This fall, before the hose for the Pencil had been put in place, the Pencil didn't exist. Right now, when the Pencil is in, it covers up the cool, easy drytool crack that is drawn in yellow (note that the crack is totally covered in ice in the picture - yellow doesn't go up the pencil, but I used yellow to draw where the crack is when the pencil isn't covering it up.) A medium nut and a #0.75ish Camalot size cam go protect this crack nicely. Then, you tool-traverse the slightly sloping ledge until you hit the thin, broken curtain. From there, you pull up, and simply follow the red line to the top. This is the most strenuous start, but, when the Pencil is in, it makes everything quite a bit easier, as you simply poke up the pencil for 8 feet until you hit the ledge. (Start up the Pencil outlined in Red) 2) Directly up the face, in green... this is about 3 moves (depending on how much ice has built up on the ledge you are standing on to start), maybe 4, to hit the ice. No pro, and the hooks are very small and difficult. I've only done this var on top rope. Later in the season, the ice gets a lot fatter (it is sort of medium in this picture), and you can get a screw in higher up on the right side of the dihedral.
Fat ice: three screws (even fat ice would necessitate 17cm or possibly less). Thin ice: varies, but a #0.5, 1, 1.5 Camalot sizes, a green Alien have fit into the various cracks. Medium ice: you're screwed because there isn't enough ice for a screw, and the ice has filled the cracks.
Descent: see info for Pencil, same thing. For all the variations, you follow the upper part of the red line to the top. When the cracks aren't full of ice (early in the season), a #0.5, 1, and 1.5 Camalot sizes, and one green Alien, are the only pro necessary on the upper (common) part. The pro is super good, as long as the cracks aren't iced up too badly.
There are lots of various trees/stumps/sticks above this route.
Another angle of the ice at the top.
Mike C. seconding, good climbing, Mike!!
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