Pitch 1 (5.10, 160'): Start up passing a right-facing flake (10a) to gain the bolt line protecting 5.10 climbing. After the first three bolts the climbing backs off to 5.8. Continue up a total of 160’ to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.10, 110'): Head up and left passing two bolts to a bulge. Pull past the bulge (5.10) and bear to the right. Pass three more bolts leading to a chickenhead field. Zip straight upward through the easy chickenheads (5.3) tying off a few chickenheads if needed for pro. Arrive at a two bolt anchor.
Transfer the belay 15’ to the right.
Pitch 3 (5.10, 100'): Climb up and left until you are to the left of the first bolt. Clip the first bolt and pull a tricky move to the right (5.10), then follow the bolts up and right to easier slab climbing. Bear left after the 6th bolt toward a tree to reach the anchor.
Pitch 4 (5.9, 175'): Climb up and right to gain three bolts leading up toward a small patch of plants (5.9). Pass the plants and enter a double crack system. Place some large stoppers in the crack and climb up to a bolt. Head up and right from the bolt to a ledge (easy but runout), then traverse right to the cave of the screaming little man. (You will temporarily join “Too Tough to Die” here.) To the left of the cave you can place a small cam and climb up to a series of bolts on a narrow slab (5.9). Climb the slab and place a #3 camalot in a horizontal, continuing up along bolts to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 5 (5.10+, 175'): Too Tough to Die follows bolts straight up. Instead of heading this way, climb up and well to your left where you will find a bolt next to a large gully. Clip the bolt and climb down toward the gully. Stay low and follow three bolts as you traverse into the gully, then follow a row of bolts up through the gully and cross out to its left side. A roof begins here and extends far left. Follow bolts leading to a crack which splits the roof (about 20' left of the gully). Clip a bolt at the roof and make a difficult right-lunging move to a large chickenhead. Taller folks may find this move easy, but those under 6’ and under will find it more difficult (10 to 10+). You can pull on the draw to do this move if needed. Follow two more bolts leading to a large tree on a large ledge. Belay at the tree.
Transfer the belay left to a two bolt anchor on the left side of the ledge. (This is the anchor for the top of pitch 4 of Ewephoria).
Pitch 6 (5.10, 110'): Again, Too Tough to Die follows bolts straight up. Again, ignore these and climb well up and left where you will pick up yet another bolt line. Follow the bolts and pull a 10c move over a bulge. From here protect with a .75” cam in a crack, then climb more bolts up a slab toward the summit. After a few difficult slab moves (5.10), the bolts will end and you’ll see the last anchor for Too Tough to Die 10’ to your right. Traverse up and right to this anchor and belay. (5.10, 110’).
On the right side of the west face of Sheepshead, locate the start of Too Tough to Die. This can be found by finding three bolts arcing up and right to a small tree on a ledge.
Move approximately 20’ to climber’s left and you will see the beginning of a runout, old-school mixed route with small unpainted SMC hangers. Continue moving 30’ to climber’s left and you will find a richly-bolted route with mint-green metolius hangers. This is your route!
The vast majority of the protection is bolts. A few pieces can be placed, most of which are detailed on the topo. A set of stoppers and single set of cams is sufficient.
Photos of Unknown (begins 50' left of The Climb Too Tough to Die) Slideshow
The start "right facing flake" is just off the ground about 8 feet up. This flake can be protected with a #3 BD cam before the first bolt. The first 4 pitches of this climb were all smiles and fun. Easy to navigate with the description and Toofast Topo. The trad gear placements on these first 4 pitches, while few, are on easy terrain. I recommend the first 4 pitches then end on TCTTTD. Pitch 5 involved a downclimb into a gully (not fun), following a bolt-line to a slippery runout slab that would be a very bad fall (can place gear then back-clean it), ending with an A0 move for anyone but a pro basketball player. Pitch 6 bulge moves were very difficult for me. Perhaps the good hold below the crux bolt broke off and got smaller? I don't know having never climbed the route before. I would say this pitch crux is 10d at least. The upper slab was fun. Trad gear I would bring next time for whole route would include 1 set nuts and BD cams 0.5 through 3 and would want for nothing beyond that.
Linking the first 4 pitches with TCTTTD was a good move for us. Very fun and cleaning up nicely down low. We didn't need anything but draws. Some might sling a couple of chicken heads or fiddle some nuts here and there.
By Dana Ernst Dec 24, 2012 rating: 5.10+6b+21VII+20E3 5b
This was a fun route up the Sheepshead. The hardest part for me was the traverse left on pitch 5. This part seemed dangerous for the follower. The roof move at the top of pitch 5 is easy if you are tall (like I am). We finished on the last pitch of The Climb Too Tough to Die.