Get The Flock Out Of Here 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches, 650 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | SA |
| Submitted By: | Geir on Apr 28, 2008 |
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Stu Ritchie on pitch 1 roof
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Description This is a fun, challenging route with a variety of climbing and quality rock. You will encounter laybacks, slab climbing, a few thin face moves, and some strenuous crack moves.
To locate the route, walk about 200' uphill from the start of Ewephoria. Here you will find a clearly defined staging area next to a 30' right facing corner. The first pitch starts on the crack to the right of the corner. Three bolts are visible along the crack.
Pitch 1 (5.10, 100'): Climb the crack, passing three bolts. At the end of the crack, make a strenuous reach (5.10) to a handhold on the right and move under a roof. Move up and left to a spot where you can pull the roof (5.9). Move left a few feet to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.7, 125'): Follow the bolts up the slab to an anchor under a roof.
Pitch 3 (5.10+, 170'): Pull the roof (5.10a/b) following bolts past two ledges. The crux lies just above the first ledge. Be cautious - a combination of rope stretch and lack of visibility for your belayer could easily lead to a tweaked ankle in this spot.
Pitch 4 (5.10, 140'): This is the best pitch of the climb. Head up and left following two bolts to a short gully which narrows to a handcrack. The handcrack moves are strenuous. At the top of the handcrack traverse right underneath a roof to a bolted anchor at a small stance.
Pitch 5 (5.10+, 110'): Layback a short, difficult crack section (5.10+). The crack narrows to 1" after about 25'. At this point move left to face climbing (5.10) along a series of bolts leading to the summit.
Protection Standard rack to #4 camalot, doubles #.75 to #3.
Wyatt Payne leads the 4th pitch
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j.prouty on the first pitch
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fourth pitch awesomeness
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fun traverse!
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overhanging layback at the beginning of P5
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Steep lieback with tricky exit. Gets better the h...
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First pitch from the ground
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From 1/4 way up first pitch
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| Comments on Get The Flock Out Of Here |
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By dcohn
Mar 22, 2009
| This is a challenging and fun way up Sheepshead. The route seemed more like 600 feet than 700. Cams up to Camalot #4 and a lot of draws were sufficient for pro. I liked having doubles of 1 and .75. The cracks are mostly parallel sided so I did not place a lot of nuts. Depending on your strengths, the crux of the climb might be on different pitches. For us, the last 2 pitches were just as hard as the third one. However it is hard to compare crack and thin face. We slung a boulder at the second huge ledge above pitch 3. It is also possible to climb ~30 feet above it and use 2 bolts for a hanging belay. |
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 29, 2009
| We did just the 1st pitch after climbing Muttonhead. I thought it was one of the best pitches I've climbed so far in Cochise, and is definitely worth doing on its own if you're looking for a bit more climbing at the end of the day. A 70 got us down comfortably and a 60 would probably work with care. |
By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Dec 19, 2010
rating: 5.10+
| Lost a black MH windstopper glove on this route 12/19/10..Fell from pitch 5 to the ledge at the top of pitch 3..
If anybody finds it, please message..
Thanks much,
Christian |
By Joe Lee
From: tucson, az
Mar 24, 2011
| If you want to sneak in a single pitch while waiting or while heading out, the first pitch is excellent. Rapped easily with a 60 meter. Just gets you down. |
By Angel Mangual
Oct 7, 2012
| Great Route! The fourth pitch is great specially the traverse under the roof. We took doubles from .3-3 BD and a 4 BD. A must do! |
By Jimbo
Oct 16, 2012
| The 1st and especially the 5th pitch were two of the best pitches I've done in the Stronghold.
The middle section of the third pitch was 2 letter grades harder than anything else on the climb. I was stoked to have not fallen off it, cause it was really close.
The traverse under the roof on pitch 4 is solid 5.10. So don't believe Geir's topo. He's climbing too well to rate stuff any more.
One #4 cam is sufficient you'll only use it on the fourth pitch. |
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 17, 2012
| Hahaha Jim I am becoming a sandbagger! Crap!
No problem, I will fix the topo. |
By Clay Mansfield
Dec 11, 2012
| Did this a few weeks back, pretty fun. I thought the first pitch was one of the best pitches I've done on the Sheepshead. 4 and 5 and really good too. |
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
May 8, 2013
rating: 5.10d
| This route is called "Get The Flock Out Of Here" and the FA is indeed Scott Ayers. |
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 8, 2013
| updated |
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