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Black & Tan S 
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Black & Tan 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 720
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Feb 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Unknown Beer (4)

Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Crank on great pockets up through two bolts of sustained climbing to meet the crux at the third. Above jugs abound up to the ledge. Take a load off. Turn the roof using a high heel for the upper crux to clip the chains. Simply Awesome!

Location 

Second route from the left. Look for the distinctive cave section up top.

Protection 

Bolts, Chains


Photos of Black & Tan Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Toph sending the easiest route at Beer Wall.
Toph sending the easiest route at Beer Wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: 3 of 3
3 of 3
Rock Climbing Photo: 2 of 3
2 of 3

Comments on Black & Tan Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rstrang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Nov 28, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I thought this was almost as good as Cutter. Another Last Chance must do
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 27, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I found myself unable to clip the forth bolt until it was at my waist which would have made for a very exciting, but safe, fall. A heady climb on fantastic rock.
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Dec 3, 2014

I killed the sandbag reference. I originally thought it was stiff for an 11a, but with time I've realized, this rating is warranted.
By Michael Gillit
Feb 23, 2016

This route is called Black And Tan. Crazy fun exit moves. .11a ish
Named for the color of the rock and beer theme.
By Michael Gillit
Feb 23, 2016

One of the other routes without the fun heelhook finish is, Ting Zhao.
Beer theme?
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Feb 26, 2016

Mike, do you know which line is Ting Zhao?

By Boulderdoc
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
May 1, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Fantastic route! Warm up. Felt like other 12a's in the canyon. Really really cool. They grey streak just left was also rad at 13b (or c if you're short, imo.)

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