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The next line right of Alan Nelson's toothy starting route is this bolted seam that arches a bit to the right. This line is a reasonable challenge with lots of awkward holds and off balance moves. It is unclear to me whether this line stays with the seam/crack on the left or really takes off on the face. I have always used the crack/seam until it forces you right. It may be possible to run it strictly on the face, but this would raise the ante a letter grade or so. This is a nice problem for thought provoking body position.
This is to the right of Death of Innocents (aka Chick Filet).
Quickdraws and a rope.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Nov 7, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
The down-pointing flake below the 1st bolt is loose. It would probably be best to either stick clip or not to rely on that hold to clip.
Oct 9, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Although completely contrived, staying completely out of the left crack makes for a good hard tips/thin fingers crack. I thought the climbing was really good, sort of remniscent of Bonecrusher but slightly easier. Difficult feet and fairly steep.