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 ADVANCED
Swan Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aid Route T 
Bay Tree Crack T 
Bobcat Crack T,TR 
Claude's Delight T 
Grant's Crack T,TR 
Hanging Flake T 
Lena's Lieback T 
Oak Tree Crack T,TR 
Oak Tree Flake T 
Penelope's Problem T 
Penthouse Cracks T,TR 
Pin Scar Seams T 
Swan Slab Chimney T 
Swan Slab Gully T 
Swan Slab Squeeze T,TR 
Ugly Duckling T 
Unknown Arete T,TR 
Unnamed Crack T 
Unnamed Crack (the other one) T,TR 
Unnamed Face Route TR 
Unnamed Seam TR 
Unnamed Thin Crack TR 
V-Crack T,TR 
West Slabs TR 

Unknown Arete 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 199
Submitted By: TacoDelRio on Apr 22, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Looking down into Swan Slab Chimney from the crux ...

Description 

This fun line climbs up the arete left of Bay Tree Crack. When I climbed it, I started up Swan Slab Chimney (5.5) to Swan Slab Squeeze (5.7). At the top of Squeeze, you can get on the arete. The first move is a couple of somewhat tricky face moves. After that, the rest is pretty easy (5.7ish) and gets much easier as the route goes up.

Please note that the PG13 rating is for leading on the old bolts.

Location 

As noted in the description, this route takes the arete left of Bay Tree Crack. Walk off is the same as Bay Tree, or rapp down to the ledge atop Chimney/Oak Tree Flake/Grant's. Easy downclimb down the chimney.

The Bay Tree Crack walk off involves a 5.5 downclimb which is tricky at first.

Protection 

Some wide cams (squeeze chimney) for Swan Slab Squeeze, then a handful of draws for the arete. Honestly better to do this as a TR solo with a 70m. The bolts up top are ancient 1/4 rusted dudes, and special wide pro for the Squeeze would rather be overkill.

Gear anchor up top, supplemented by one old bolt/hanger combo atop Bay Tree Crack.


Photos of Unknown Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at the slabby part or whatever. Words.
Looking up at the slabby part or whatever. Words.

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