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Swan Slab
Routes Sorted
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Aid Route 
Bay Tree Crack 
Bobcat Crack 
Claude's Delight 
Grant's Crack 
Hanging Flake 
Lena's Lieback 
Oak Tree Crack 
Oak Tree Flake 
Penelope's Problem 
Penthouse Cracks 
Pin Scar Seams 
Swan Slab Chimney 
Swan Slab Gully 
Swan Slab Squeeze 
Ugly Duckling 
Unknown Arete 
Unnamed Crack 
Unnamed Crack (the other one) 
Unnamed Face Route 
Unnamed Seam 
Unnamed Thin Crack 
V-Crack 
West Slabs 

Unknown Arete 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 150
Submitted By: TacoDelRio on Apr 22, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Looking down into Swan Slab Chimney from the crux ...
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Description 

This fun line climbs up the arete left of Bay Tree Crack. When I climbed it, I started up Swan Slab Chimney (5.5) to Swan Slab Squeeze (5.7). At the top of Squeeze, you can get on the arete. The first move is a couple of somewhat tricky face moves. After that, the rest is pretty easy (5.7ish) and gets much easier as the route goes up.

Please note that the PG13 rating is for leading on the old bolts.


Location 

As noted in the description, this route takes the arete left of Bay Tree Crack. Walk off is the same as Bay Tree, or rapp down to the ledge atop Chimney/Oak Tree Flake/Grant's. Easy downclimb down the chimney.

The Bay Tree Crack walk off involves a 5.5 downclimb which is tricky at first.


Protection 

Some wide cams (squeeze chimney) for Swan Slab Squeeze, then a handful of draws for the arete. Honestly better to do this as a TR solo with a 70m. The bolts up top are ancient 1/4 rusted dudes, and special wide pro for the Squeeze would rather be overkill.

Gear anchor up top, supplemented by one old bolt/hanger combo atop Bay Tree Crack.



Photos of Unknown Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at the slabby part or whatever. Words.
Looking up at the slabby part or whatever. Words.
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