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 ADVANCED
Deer Creek Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Heart Shaped Box Boulder 
Highwayman, The S 
Horseshoes and Handgrenades TR 
Jugular 
Metallica Monday 
Paper Planes 
Pimp Chimp's Crimp, The 
Random V6 
Road Less Traveled, The S 
Unknown aka The Pump and The Pendulum S 
Variety Show TR 
Westside Connection, The S 
Unsorted Routes:

Unknown aka The Pump and The Pendulum 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,150
Submitted By: mlloyd on Apr 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Zac on The Pump and The Pendulum.
Private Property? MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is one of the best short 5.12s in Colorado. Bouldery and thugy on good edges. It is the second route from the right. It climbs right meeting up with "The Highway Man".


Location 

This is the second route from the right located on the Roadside Wall in Deer Creek Canyon.


Protection 

Some quickdraws.



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Zac on The Pump and The Pendulum.
Zac on The Pump and The Pendulum.
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 6, 2011
By Scott Hahn
Jul 15, 2008

I would be very careful actually going to the anchors on this climb. There are some huge sections of rock/talus that are extremely hollow after you mantle. Not to mention the anchors are in a pretty serious fractured rock. Look closely and you'll see the fracture all the way around your anchors.

By Chris Cavallaro
Oct 23, 2008

BURL! Climbs a lot longer and harder than it looks, well it looks pretty stout (and it is!).

There is a fixed chain/biner on the last bolt on the lip of the wall. Are people clipping this and lowering off of the one bolt? Going to the anchors looks sketchy as the rock quality does not look solid. But, lowering off this one bolt seems just as bad as it grinds your rope into the rock.

How are people cleaning or lowering off this thing?

By Chris Cavallaro
Oct 29, 2008

Does anyone know the equipper of this route so we can contact to change the anchor's location? This is something that is needed to be done ASAP.
Is this something we need to get 'permission' for?

By Old and Busted
From: Centennial, CO
Oct 29, 2008

Who cares? It's a funny little rock alongside the road. It had been a top rope crag for dozens and dozens of years before being bolted. If the anchor situation needs updating, then just do it. It's not like you are altering some heavily ascended, famous or epic route.

By Old and Busted
From: Centennial, CO
Nov 9, 2008

Care about what? The anchors being in a shitty spot? That's an obtuse statement. Are they yours? Refresh my memory: are they some of the anchors that have been there since before 1987, when I first climbed there? Or are they part of this new "development"?

Regardless, they might as well be in the most effective location. So, since you guys have decided to bolt that which many, many bolters before you have climbed on repeatedly and chose to pass by (back when you were in grade school, btw), it might as well be done right. So either the original top-roper from the mid-'70s placed them there, in which case I highly doubt that whomever did it would give a shit; or someone from this era did it and bungled the job; either way just put in 2 good anchors in the most effective spot and move on.

Hell, someone wants to spring for the gear I'll swing by and do it.

By Old and Busted
From: Centennial, CO
Nov 10, 2008

I didn't mean to be such a dick. Sometimes the words don't flow right. I guess my point was just fix the anchors. That rock has more history than you might think so at least do it right.

Plus, don't expect that almost every line did not get a TR run sometime through the ages prior to you guys, but who cares about that. I think setting it up for free climbs is a good thing. Cheers.

By Chris Cavallaro
Nov 18, 2008

Thanks Jables!

By jleining
Feb 24, 2009

You guys are pathetic. The mantle at the end is the best part of the climb, the fixed anchors are right there on the lip above the mantle, and plus The Highway Man shares the anchor with this climb.

By Chris Cavallaro
Feb 26, 2009

Actually, jleining, I think you are pathetic for being a jerk. Whenever I was working this route and then seconding it to clean, it hammers your rope over the edge. Did you not notice this? Did you not notice all the precarious/fractured/loose rock at the top? I like to be safe.

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Mar 12, 2009
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Schtweep! (short, steep and sweet)

By j gatchalian
From: denver, co
Sep 30, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

What a great route! Def packs a punch for how short it is. Unfortunately, the flexy crimp jug by the 3rd bolt ripped off the wall today. It was nice to clip off of, for sure. The route isn't any harder, you just have to clip low or even higher than before. My climber took a good winger when that thing came out....

By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Oct 2, 2009

I knew it was only a matter of time before that one ripped off.... Good hold to clip from for sure.

By Luke Childers
Oct 22, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Great line... solid for the grade while offering long positive moves on steep stone that leads to an exciting finish sequence. This line climbs better than it first appears.

The anchors could use a little make over so's to not crush and rub one's rope when lowering.

By Rob DeZonia
Sep 6, 2011

Us old timers can't believe you young whipper snappers with your shiny bolts and fancy shoes. In our day, we climbed these lines with nothing more than a rack of hexes, a hemp rope, and flip flops. We didn't call those little holds "crimps." We just called them "little holds." Kids these days!