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Donnelly Canyon
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5.10 Corner 
Ansaid Tower 
Binou's Crack 
Chocolate Corner 
Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The 
Dos Hermanos 
Elephant Man 
Fuel Injected Hardbody 
Generic Crack 
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark 
Let 'er Buck 
Mr. Peanut 
Naked and Dead, The 
Naked and the Dead Variation 
Ocean Negro 
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Thing, The 
Unknown 5.10+ (left of Naked and the Dead) 
Unknown AKA Reclamation 
Unknown Pod Climb. 

Unknown AKA Reclamation 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
Page Views: 497
Submitted By: chris Kalous on Feb 16, 2009
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A 50' black corner to a choice between a 5.10 hands corner or 5.11 finger splitter. It starts off as a difficult laybacking boulder problem. I left a fixed nut because small cams take up the only holds and a pillar looms below. The nut makes it safe and solid. Then .11- finger climbing leads to a ledge that used to have a jingus two pin anchor in a splitter crack. I "replaced" the anchor, and in a fit of ruthless vandalism, moved it another 50' feet higher to where a sweet 5.10 corner and a 5.11 splitter converge. The route continues via a blocky flake system to a bolted offwidth roof at least one more pitch (I only spied all this from the ground). It appears that the FA probably aided a few more feet above the new anchor (knifeblade pin scars evident) and swung into the flake. It is possible to step left into the flake system from the top of the splitter, however. The whole route seems to have been nailed originally, as angle scars pock even the 2 inch cracks.

I'd give it three stars, but the fact that the crux is significantly harder than the rest of the route detracts a little. But the upper splitter is a classic finger stack trainer; the low angle, footers, and pods keep it from being brutal, but rattly stacks are required.


This is a corner 50' to the right of Generic Crack. The book may claim it as a two pitch unknown at 5.11. The anchor was a originally lower. It is now a stout but worthy 105' route. Very clean.


.4" to hands. If you use the splitter variation, you don't need hand size pieces. Be careful lowering with a 60 meter rope- you just make it to a pillar and easy down climb. The nut mentioned above is gone (wow, what a score!), so you may want a medium to small nut for the start.

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By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Mar 9, 2009

I've always wondered about this thing. Glad to see that someone finally got curious enough to get on it!