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Unknown aka Lost Elden Crack
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British R
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Lost Elden
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Cleopatra T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cubasco T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Elden Slab Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Gideon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Remudadero T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown aka Lost Elden Crack T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Unknown aka Pillar Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wide Eyed T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,930 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Jeffrey Snyder on Jan 21, 2013 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Little history is known about this Nor.AZ classic. J.Mattson was rumored to have climbed the left variation and at some point the right variation was aid climbed by an unknown party (J.M.? J.Gaun?). Until recently there was still a fixed stopper and a worthless "bashie" in the upper headwall. Any prior FFA of the right variation is unknown.
Start just right of the "pit of doom", climb up and traverse over to chossy, nest filled huecos above "pit of doom". Place a marginal piece in choss pod and climb through dangerous and unpredictable terrain to good ledge. A fall above the "pit of doom" is not an option and will result in injury.
Place good but small gear and climb steep crack to splitter off fingers. Continue up splitter off fingers (5.11) to a decision point.
Option 1: Make a hero move left to climb fingers in a flake to hands (5.10ish, Rad!)
Option 2: Plug small cams and plunge into the powerful and strenuous boulder problem that splits the upper headwalls' orange shield. Use a series of power pinches, strenuous laybacking and tip-locks to gun into a resolution hand jam. There is no gear during the crux sequence but though the fall is big, it is clean.
I was able to red point on 10/1/2012 after many failed attempts and resulting whipper therapy. M.Swartz repeated a month later
Start just right of the "pit of doom", climb up and traverse over to chossy, nest filled huecos above "pit of doom". Place a marginal piece in choss pod and climb through dangerous and unpredictable terrain to good ledge. A fall above the "pit of doom" is not an option and will result in injury.
Place good but small gear and climb steep crack to splitter off fingers. Continue up splitter off fingers (5.11) to a decision point.
Option 1: Make a hero move left to climb fingers in a flake to hands (5.10ish, Rad!)
Option 2: Plug small cams and plunge into the powerful and strenuous boulder problem that splits the upper headwalls' orange shield. Use a series of power pinches, strenuous laybacking and tip-locks to gun into a resolution hand jam. There is no gear during the crux sequence but though the fall is big, it is clean.
I was able to red point on 10/1/2012 after many failed attempts and resulting whipper therapy. M.Swartz repeated a month later
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