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Exploring the line for the first time. You can se...
This is about 30 feet right of Consolation Prize
and just left of the AC/DC Arete. This route ascends the first obvious, acute dihedral you come to.
Dont let the route name discourage you. The first half rope length pitch is quality! The rest earns its name though.
This has 30m of great thin hands climbing with good rests interspersed throughout ending at a well placed anchor that now sports chains and biners. This 1/2 rope length pitch is a quality 10-.
The climb appears to have originally been set up to present the option of doing it as an almost rope length pitch to the upper anchors and if done that way, you have to rap the opposite side of the arete and need doubles. The terrain above the lower (30m) anchor starts out great but quickly turns into a scrappy 5.8+.
1/2 way up the upper half (if that makes sense - see the photo) you can climb out around the arete to the top anchors on the AC/DC Arete if you want to TR either of those lines. Alternatively, you could climb all the way to the higher anchors of the dihedral and rap 20 feet to the AC/DC anchors and from there to the ground with a single 70m.
Note: if you go all the way to the higher anchors on this route, exit the crack system on to the arete 8 feet shy of the top anchor to avoid having to climb the scary sounding massive block that stands between you and the anchor. You will need a long runner to place gear and protect this last part to mitigate rope drag. The upper anchor is a good bolt and a nut with tat and biners. You may want to bring your own tat as this is a seldom visited anchor.
Bring a bunch of #1 Camalots or equivalent with a 0.5, a few #2s, and a #3. If you go all the way to the upper anchors, bring singles in the sub #1 range, supplement your rack some more in the #1 and #2 range plus nuts and a long sling for your last piece of gear. The first 30m stays consistently at the wide #1 hand size plus a 0.5 for your first piece.
From: Center, CO
Nov 14, 2014
As of Nov. '14, there are new chains for the anchor thanks to Jesse.