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 ADVANCED
West Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route T 
BLM (aka, Bolt Like Mad) S 
Left-facing Dihedral T 
Shaft, The S 
Unknown 2nd 9 T,S 
Unknown 5 T,S 
Unknown 7+ T,S 
Unknown 9 T,S 
Unknown 9+ T,S 

Unknown 9+ 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 122
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 26, 2013

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George on the cruiser P2 of the climb.

Description 

This is a line that may start lower from the ground, but there was no definite lower pitch, so we'll describe as a 2-3 pitch line that starts about 40 feet up on a grassy ledge. This could be linked into a single pitch.

P1. Climb onto a slab, place a cam (#0.75 to #1 Camalot size), and clip some bolts. There are good holds to make this much easier than it looks. Above the 3rd bolt, you may want to be careful with this large flake on the right...pulling outwards might cause something to happen that you might not like. Continue up easier terrain to a 2 bolt anchor with quicklinks, 5.7, 50'.

P2. Move up and left following big horizontals on cruiser terrain to a ledge at a small tree. You can belay at the two bolt anchor with rappable hangers a few feet left. 5.0, 80'. Alternatively, you can continue up the dihedral that is pitch 3 of the 1978 Bracksieck/Mallow route past a retrobolt next to good natural placements, 5.7, 130'. Note, this can run with water.

P3. Climb a fingertip seam with an early crux up a slab past 2 bolts. Small Aliens and a #1 Camalot protect this section. Gain a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor with quicklinks. Note, the rope pull is a bit difficult with the orientation of the links. Another couple of links or chains might help.

Make up to 4 raps angling right to the ground. Note that you may be able to rap down and left from the 2nd rap to gain the anchors above , , and .


Location 

This starts on a ledge ~40' off the ground on the right side of the West Slabs.


Protection 

Bolts, a light rack to a #2 Camalot works. Note, you may want the #3 & 3.5 Camalots if you do the left-facing dihedral below to start this.



Photos of Unknown 9+ Slideshow Add Photo
George above the tips crack (crux) of what can be P3.
George above the tips crack (crux) of what can be ...
<a href='/v/unknown-9/108259835'>Unknown 9+</a>, 9+, pitches 1 & part of 2 in green.  <a href='/v/unknown-5/108259852'>Unknown 5</a>, 5, in blue.
Unknown 9+, 9+, pitches 1 & part of 2 in green....
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