Unknown 9+ aka Hustle 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Ed Ash?, energized bolter(s)? |
| Submitted By: | Leo Paik on Oct 15, 2009 |
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Description This is currently the 2nd from the left of the bolted routes on this buttress. It starts on what appears to be a smoothish slab.
Hop onto the slab (best part). Find a nice left foot edge and reach for the diagonally thin crack (crux). Scamper up to a ledge, you can protect with a #1 or #2 Camalot, then a yellow or possibly red Alien. Angle up and right to 2 bolt anchors with Mussy hooks. With the bolts so close, you could probably traverse further right to select between this route and the next 2 route's anchors. Note, the two key slab holds feel like they will round down and become less positive with traffic. Addendum: some folks say this is 11- now.
It's probably between 1-2 stars. The route to the right is better.
This had been given a name within the database, but someone has deleted it. Now others have provided the name, Hustle. This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.
Location This is currently the second from the left of the bolted climbs on this little buttress.
Protection 7 bolts + a few cams from yellow Alien/TCU to #1 or 2 Camalot.
| Comments on Unknown 9+ aka Hustle |
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By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Jul 11, 2010
rating: 5.11a
| I did this today. The description is good [2nd bolt line from the left; right up the middle of the slab]. I'm pretty fair on slabs and it struck me as 10d/11a. (I'm 5'8", but it was the only fall I took all day.) Maybe Leo was right about some key holds rounding off [or disappearing altogether?]. I skipped the cams, but easily saw where the would go on the left (after the slab) before moving right to the bolt above an overlap/roof. (BTW, this gave my buddy the opportunity to approach that bolt directly, just at the wide point of the overlap.) |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 22, 2010
rating: 5.10+
| This route is probably 10+. The holds are pretty small and the feet are tiny, rounded slopers. Slabmasters will like the crux. The rounout is on pretty easy ground relative to the rest of the route. Maybe 5.6 or so? |
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 23, 2011
rating: 5.10c
| We had no gear, so I wallowed up left via the hand crack, lay on my belly, and slung a chockstone. Stepped right to the bolt and higher up jammed a knot in a crack. Along the way I TR'd the roof just left of the route to the right. It was pretty good, at 10 something with a long reach to start. |
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