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Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack Where Sun Don't Shine, The 
Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun 
Respect 
Unknown 10 aka Thunderhead 
Unknown 10+ (beige hangers) aka Spooked aka Firestarter? 
Unknown 10- aka Spooked 
Unknown 11 aka Lightning Strike 
Unknown 11- right variation aka Rain Delay 
Unknown 5 Arete aka Nurse Jackie 
Unknown 7 Left Start aka Californication 
Unknown 7 Right Start aka Weeds 
Unknown 8 Blunt Arete aka Reunion 
Unknown 9 aka Side Dish 
Unknown 9+ (black hangers) aka Fire and Rain 
Unknown 9+ aka Hustle 
Unknown 9- aka Loyalty 
Unknown aka Rain Check 
Unknown Center Variation aka Quick Silver 
Unknown Ear Route aka Smallville 
Unknown Far Right aka Dexter 
Unknown Left Variation aka Summer Nights 
Unknown Right Variation aka Erika 
Unknown Slab to Arete 
Unknown Variation Left aka Full Respect 
Whodathunkit 

Unknown 9- aka Loyalty 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ed Ash?, energized bolter(s)?
Page Views: 1,527
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 15, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is probably the most pleasant of the bolted routes on this crag. This is currently the 3rd bolted line from the left of the bolted routes on this buttress.

Find this start with 3 bolts on the right edge of a big flake. Move right, pop over a little overlap, enjoy pleasant moves to the top. Note, you may clip the bolt from the route to the left or to the right for the 7th clip. Apparently, some folks stop after 7 bolts.

Caveat Emptor: one fellow apparently fell, flipping, and breaking an ankle on this route, so pay attention. Bring small cams if this is near your limit. Some now rate this 9+.

This had been given a name within the database, but someone has deleted it. Now others have provided the name, Loyalty. This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.


Location 

This is currently the 3rd bolted line from the left on this little buttress.


Protection 

10 bolts and possibly gear.



Comments on Unknown 9- aka Loyalty Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 22, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

It also has something of a runout on 5.easy terrain (5.6?) that takes gear if you want it. You can step left and clip a bolt on the route to the left up toward the top to make the runout shorter if you do not carry gear.

By JonnyGreenlee
From: Evergreen, CO
Mar 7, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

I did this first just running out the easy sections- did it again with gear, found a nice 0.3 C4 placement below the little roof and a 0.5 C4 in the easier climbing above it. It takes some of the fun out of it but sews it up nicely.

By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 11, 2013

Gear 0.5"-1" will protect the middle section nicely.