Unknown 9- aka Loyalty 5.9-
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Ed Ash?, energized bolter(s)? |
| Submitted By: | Leo Paik on Oct 15, 2009 |
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Right above the crux bulge.
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Description This is probably the most pleasant of the bolted routes on this crag. This is currently the 3rd bolted line from the left of the bolted routes on this buttress.
Find this start with 3 bolts on the right edge of a big flake. Move right, pop over a little overlap, enjoy pleasant moves to the top. Note, you may clip the bolt from the route to the left or to the right for the 7th clip. Apparently, some folks stop after 7 bolts.
Caveat Emptor: one fellow apparently fell, flipping, and breaking an ankle on this route, so pay attention. Bring small cams if this is near your limit. Some now rate this 9+.
This had been given a name within the database, but someone has deleted it. Now others have provided the name, Loyalty. This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.
Location This is currently the 3rd bolted line from the left on this little buttress.
Protection 10 bolts and possibly gear.
| Comments on Unknown 9- aka Loyalty |
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 22, 2010
rating: 5.9-
| It also has something of a runout on 5.easy terrain (5.6?) that takes gear if you want it. You can step left and clip a bolt on the route to the left up toward the top to make the runout shorter if you do not carry gear. |
By JonnyGreenlee
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 7, 2012
rating: 5.9-
| I did this first just running out the easy sections- did it again with gear, found a nice 0.3 C4 placement below the little roof and a 0.5 C4 in the easier climbing above it. It takes some of the fun out of it but sews it up nicely. |
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