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Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag
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Californication S 
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Friends S 
Full Respect S 
Hustle T 
Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun T,TR 
Lightning Strike S 
Loyalty S 
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YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ed Ash?, energized bolter(s)?
Page Views: 2,450
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 15, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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Good shot of the route.

2016 Seasonal Raptor Closures - Eagle Rock remains closed MORE INFO >>>


This is probably the most pleasant of the bolted routes on this crag. This is currently the 3rd bolted line from the left of the bolted routes on this buttress.

Find this start with 3 bolts on the right edge of a big flake. Move right, pop over a little overlap, enjoy pleasant moves to the top. Note, you may clip the bolt from the route to the left or to the right for the 7th clip.

Caveat Emptor: one fellow apparently fell, flipping, and breaking an ankle on this route, so pay attention. Bring small cams if this is near your limit. Some now rate this 9+.

This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.


This is currently the 3rd bolted line from the left on this little buttress.


8-10 bolts and possibly gear.

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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 22, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

It also has something of a runout on 5.easy terrain (5.6?) that takes gear if you want it. You can step left and clip a bolt on the route to the left up toward the top to make the runout shorter if you do not carry gear.
By JonnyGreenlee
From: Evergreen, CO
Mar 7, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I did this first just running out the easy sections- did it again with gear, found a nice 0.3 C4 placement below the little roof and a 0.5 C4 in the easier climbing above it. It takes some of the fun out of it but sews it up nicely.
By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 11, 2013

Gear 0.5"-1" will protect the middle section nicely.
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Jun 17, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

There are 8 bolts on this route, unless you clip some on adjacent routes. Minor runout after B4 has ledge-fall potential and can be protected with a small cam (e.g. 0.3 - 0.5 BD). More significant runout above B6 can be protected with micro cams on the left or medium cams under the overlap to the right (long draw). Or just climb through it and wonder where those other bolts went.
By Joncharlesdavis
May 24, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Don't be intimidated by the crux. All the holds are there.
By Andrew Locke
From: Louisville, CO
Aug 4, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Not worth bringing the gear unless you're going for other gear lines. The only runout is through easy climbing.

Partner and I both enjoyed this line quite a bit, but I'm not really sure where the crux is. The roof is pretty easy once you find the hold above it. We both thought this was 5.8, and we're gumbies. Certainly don't feel intimidated by the grade, though it *might* be a good idea to stick clip the second bolt if you're a new leader. The moves right below it are thoughtful, and a fall would be...unpleasant.

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