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Bar Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bar Fight S 
Bar Fly S 
Bar Traverse, The 
Crawl, The 
Factotum S 
Snake Pit 
Unnamed V7 

Bar Fly 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chris Summit, ca. 2006?
Page Views: 320
Submitted By: John M Ross on Sep 26, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Bar Fly

Description 

The right set of obvious bolts, good climbing with positive holds, route is 5.5 after the 3rd or 4th bolt so a little soft for the grade IMO. rock is super solid, not crumbly like some routes at the quarry, and its nice to be right next to the water on hot days!

Location 

Just up stream from mammoth bar bouldering located right on the waters edge!

Protection 

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor


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By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
Oct 19, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

There are three routes on the little wall, this one, this middle line which is a solid .10 as stated in the description, and a wicked hard third route on the left with super slick river polished holds. Can't remember the exact bolt counts but they were well bolted.
By John M Ross
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Oct 30, 2012

mattymck: the third route i have not been able to find bolts for. but this is a good option for the closed quarry during the week!
By Boriss
From: Sacramento
Apr 9, 2013

I've heard of this route before, but never actually been there. Is there an easy approach to the top?
By John M Ross
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Apr 9, 2013

no approach to set up TR that im aware of, so this would be another lead mandatory
By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
May 9, 2013

There are bolts on the top. The way top. Wolf Ridge is 5.7 (a little spooky to the first bolt) it starts off the boulder to the right and traverses left to the anchors past 1 or two bolts shared with the middle route called Bar Fly .10b and the left route is .10c/d forget the name some "Bar" pun tho.
By John M Ross
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
May 9, 2013

so the 5.7 go past the anchors for these 2 climbs? and you know anything about the route with anchors but no lead bolts? ive tried to play with it on TR but it is super hard!

any info on the FA?
By drunkenmaster
From: santa rosa, cali
Dec 26, 2013

i did the left route that is now the lead climb "factotum". i did fa on tr but i never went back to finish it since at that time they were dealing with the access issues that arose at the quarry. good job to the guys that did it - factotum it is!

the other routes i did have the names wrong or incomplete and they are;

"bar fight" is the route on the right with the short boulder crux at the start and then the 5.5 ending. the route to its left up the corner is "bar fly" and then factotum would be to its left.

i also thought there could be at least another new route or two further to the left!?

and i also wanted to do "wolf ridge" but never got around to it but it sounds like someone did - thats so cool i cant wait to do it! theres potential for probably a few more new ones too. its not really a local area for me being about a 2hr drive so im glad that the actual locals are starting to enjoy it finally :)