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Unknown 5.9 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Duane Anderton
Page Views: 1,495
Submitted By: jtwalter on Aug 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Walt on the steep part of the route.
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A steep start climbs through four bolts of great pockets and jugs before the angle slabs out and the climbing becomes more nondescript. Rock is reminiscent of black limestone of the upper part of Escape Buttress. Pockets abound and the climbing is fun, yet challenging for the start.


Location 

Located on the Hard Rock West wall, this is the second route to the left of Stump. Approach as to Hard Rock Wall, when you get to the top of the slope, head left to new Hard Rock West area. Continue west past the terraced area to newer climbs.


Protection 

9 Bolts and the chains.



Comments on Unknown 5.9 Add Comment
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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Sep 3, 2007

Did this on Labor day 07'. Still some loose holds here and there but mostly ok. I would give it only one out of three stars. I missed several jugs on the way up that I spotted on the way down. This is probably why I felt that this was harder than 5.9.

By Andrew Seegmiller
From: Orem UT
Aug 19, 2009

Very fun rock., didnt have a problem with any loose holds when i was up their climbing. this was my first lead! i felt like the crux was the small bulge about half way up. i think its between the fourth and fifth bolt. not really a crux, more just of a hidden jug that is a little difficult to find. its one the right side of the bulge for those having any problems with this climb.

By BJB
From: Austin, TX
Mar 18, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The route is totally clean at this point. The first 4 bolts of climbing are pretty steep and a little difficult. The last 30 or so feet could have been done without but the beginning is pretty fun.

By Aaron Shields
From: Lehi, UT
Aug 2, 2013

A hold broke off this morning that was the size of a dinner plate just below the bulge. Didn't seem to change the climb that much, though.

By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Mar 10, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is harder than the route to the left and harder than 5.9 through the first 4 bolts, very easy after that.

By BackAtItAgain
Aug 24, 2014

The hold that broke makes the move past the 4th bolt much harder than 5.9 - perhaps if you are 6' tall it doesn't matter - but to a shorter person this broken hold bumps this up to solid 10.

By mudgek
4 hours ago
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I found the moves past the 4th bolt to be a bit smaller and as hard or harder than any of the moves on First Born, which is rated 5.10c; but then, it could be I was just so pumped from climbing First Born that made this climb feel like 5.10b/c.