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Cereal Buttress
Routes Sorted
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Aunt Jemima T 
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Born Again S 
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Call of the Wild  T 
Capt Crunch T 
Doug Reed Solo TR 
Faith Based Initiative T 
Frankenberry T 
Frosted Flake T 
Fruit Loops T 
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Green Eggs and Ham S 
Hungry Jack T 
Inner Peace T,S 
Jack Be Nimble S 
Mennonite Surf Party S 
Mid-Life Crisis T 
Name Unknown S 
Name Unknown (5.4) T 
Name Unknown (5.8 R/X) TR 
Obamanation T 
Petrified Frog T 
Sea Wolf T 
Shredded Wheat T 
Unknown 5.8 (splitter hand crack) T 
Whisky For Breakfast T 
Wylen T 

Unknown 5.8 (splitter hand crack) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,619
Submitted By: Mike Reardon on Jan 19, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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BETA PHOTO: It is the crack to the right of the larger chimney...

Description 

Unique climb for NC;good hand jams up an obvious crack. Climb a short corner to a ledge, then take the splitter crack to the top of the partially detached pillar

Location 

Take the Cereal Wall approach but walk left once you hit the wall. Take a faint trail around some boulders and up hill about 50 feet. You will see a series of cracks, some very wide. This route is the right-most crack

Protection 

2-4"; double 3's are good
Rappel slings at the top- bring a cordelet to set a TR


Photos of Unknown 5.8 (splitter hand crack) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: not long but certainly fun. crux seems to be just ...
BETA PHOTO: not long but certainly fun. crux seems to be just ...

Comments on Unknown 5.8 (splitter hand crack) Add Comment
Show which comments
By zFoy
From: Asheville, NC
Feb 17, 2012

Surprised this gets so few stars. It's short, but packs action the whole way with a great rest after some cupped-hands to fist action. Protects well with a couple of large (#3-4) cams.
By Michael Lucky
From: Charleston, SC
Jan 21, 2013

I really liked this climb, It has one or two offwidth sections in it and the start was a little difficult for me. Short but fun.
By chris mcguigan
From: belmont, nc
Dec 7, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great crack climb would be four stars if it was taller
By Jonathan Dull
From: Boone, NC
May 9, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A splitter line that's for sure! If you're not use to crack climbing this will probably feel more difficult than 5.8. The crux is probably just getting established into the crack off the ledge.
By Crushin' Prussian
From: carrboro, nc
Nov 24, 2014

By time you get into the rhythm of this climb, it's over. Fun climb though. Bring a couple #3s and #2s, it's all of 40ft tall.
By JohnnyRemein
From: Asheville
Mar 10, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great climb, although too short! I'm a newbie at jamming, but this was a good one to lead and then take some laps on to get the feel for hand/fist jams. Recommended
By munkeybog
From: Columbia, SC
Mar 11, 2016

If you get lost, and find yourself at this climb, do it. But don't go seeking it out. Reminds me of the 20ft perfect hands (5.9) left and down hill of Invisible Airwaves. Nobody goes to LG Northface seeking it out.

On the other hand if you have a newb crew with you, lock this thing down with a TR rig and nobody will care.

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