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Black and Tan
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Learning Curve 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: T. Goss, J. Howard
Page Views: 426
Submitted By: Kenny Clark on May 23, 2011

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In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise

Description 

This route starts off with some thin moves on the slab. After the first bolt of Redolence move to the right and follow the line of bolts that continue up and to the right. Holds are thin and require some thought up until the 4th bolt or so, after which the climb changes personality. More features are available in the little runnels that have formed. The difficulty eases, and the bolts get farther and farther apart up to the ring anchors.

When lowering off this route you will end up 30 feet or more to the right of your belayer. Have a second clean the climb. Don't try to clean this while lowering, or on rappel. You will get some nasty scratches on the sharp rock when you swing.

Location 

On the left side of the caves at Black and Tan. Shares the first bolt of Redolence then skirts off to the right.

Protection 

8 or 9 bolts to rings (assuming I recall correctly).


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By Eriks Rozners
From: Binghamton, NY
Jun 21, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

This route is listed as 5.6 in Todd Goss 2015 guidebook. It felt more like 5.4. The rock is super sharp and a fall would be a horrible disaster, hence PG13. I got cuts and blood stains from simply touching the rock with knees and elbows. Similar comment goes for the adjacent Redolence.

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