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Skinner Mountain
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Wally World T 

Lookatdat 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,748
Submitted By: Kirk Ranney on Oct 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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90 feet of fun.

Description 

This is the first bolted slab line down and climber's left from the start to Wally World.

The first clip seemed to be the crux. Overall, the route is not too difficult, a couple of moves of 5.7. There is a two bolt anchor on a ledge 90 feet up. The bolts are threaded with webbing and rap rings. It is a fun way to end the day after some of the longer trad climbs.

Protection 

7 quickdraws.


Photos of Lookatdat Slideshow Add Photo
Unknown 5.7.
Unknown 5.7.
Leading the 5.7 line (right-most line).
Leading the 5.7 line (right-most line).
Cruising up.
Cruising up.

Comments on Lookatdat Add Comment
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By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 7, 2010

This is actually the first pitch of Central Corner. I'd give it 3 stars if done independently of the dihedral above.
By Mike Morin
From: On the Road
Mar 8, 2010

Hmmm...I think you might be mistaken Jason. I believe the first pitch of Central Corner is the old cold shut line, which is the 3rd bolted route to the left.
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 8, 2010

I originally thought that too, Mike, and you could still be correct, but the old guide's list there being three routes originally on the slab, with the first pitch of Central Corner being the rightmost line. The original hardware is on two of the routes, the far left with Leeper and the coldshut line just right of center. Now according to the old guides, only two of the three had bolts on it, though the first pitch of Central Corner only had one and if it's the coldshut route, it now sports 9 bolts. That aside, the reason I think this route is the first pitch of Central Corner is that the old white cover guide shows the line hitting Wally World much more to the right than the cold shut route does. Looking at just the grades too, there isn't a 5.7 pitch between the two old bolted lines, but I think the grades should be switched, this line being 5.7 tops (closer to 5.6 in my opinion) and the coldshut route more like 5.8. Now, with that said, there is a dike immediately left of the coldshut route that could potentially be Easy Out instead of the coldshut line. I didn't climb the dike so I don't know but looking at the photo I took right now, it seems in theory that you could get some sparse gear in for an "R" rated route. The old white guide shows it going straight up the slab which might be accurate while the newer guide shows it going over a small roof, which is what the coldshut route does. So after writing all this, I don't know where I stand and am thoroughly confused. Dang it, Mike, now I gotta go back out there again and climb them a second time. Maybe you want to join me? We need an action photo of the dihedral on Central Corner anyway. I put an email out to Scott Sills a few days ago who said he bolted some stuff here and I'll call Trout tonight to maybe clear this up. Thanks for pointing this out.
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Mar 8, 2010

Dave led the first pitch of the roof with I believe one Rawl drive. The other bolts on his pitch and the other routes on the slab were added just before the first "real guide" book to the area was published. In fact many many bolted slab climbs were put up just before the publication of said "guidebook."
By Mike Morin
From: On the Road
Mar 9, 2010

I've always felt that the line had a move of 5.7 at the bottom and one move of 5.7 at the top with pretty consistent 5.5 through the middle. I agree with your rating of 5.8 on the cold shut route. Let's get up there Jason, Tuesdays and Wednesdays are generally good for me.

Thanks for the history Allen, I love hearing about those early Platte ascents! Obviously the original wildness has been wiped out by the addition of retro-bolts, but I certainly have a new appreciation for that line and look forward to seeing it with a new perspective.
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 22, 2010

OK, comments rescinded. We went back out there (two more times), and I believe we have cleared up all errors and all erroneous bolts on this slab. I now think Easy Out climbs the dike behind the large tree growing against the rock into Central Corner's cold shuts on pitch one, merging just below the roof. Does anyone else agree or even done Easy out for that matter? The dike naturally leads up to that point as well, though the roof is probably a touch harder than 5.7.
By Kelli Deeter
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 12, 2011

Anchors now with chains.
By MountainManny
From: Idaho Springs
Nov 26, 2012

Good fun on this route and the others nearby.

Maybe a little stiff with the rating on the right-most line...maybe more 5.6ish than 7 with all the rests.
By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Dec 29, 2013

So, after reviewing all that, this is called Lookatdat in the new book, route 10. Can an administrator change the name from Unknown now?