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(route to left of New Ideal, right of Rainbow Arch) 
(un-named) 5.7 arete 
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Man Overboard 
Mean Lean 
Mean Lean (description to be deleted, earlier description previously entered) 
Meathooks 
Minnie Driver 
Modern Day Pirates 
Monopoly 
Mystery Slab 
New Ideal 
no name (on Wolf Wall) 
Oak (AKA Oak Tree Direct), The 
Papillon 
Penchant 
Petrified 
Polar Express 
project on Wolf Wall 
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Putting Out the Vibe 
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Rockwa 
Rustler 
Scooter Girl 
Song of the Cows 
Steele Head 
Stepping Out 
Sting  
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Sugar Magnolia 
Suspended Animation 
Three Pitch 
Tornado on your Birthday 
Triad 
Uncertain Return 
unnamed 5.10 left of Psycho Killer 
unnamed 5.9 (area left of Wolf Wall) 
Unnamed area below and left of Wrangler, etc. 
unnamed trad on wolf wall 
Vineland 
Walk the Line 
Welcome to Steele 
Wendy's Finger Crack 
Wolfe-Waites 
Wolverine 
Wrangler 

(un-named) 5.7 arete 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type: Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Season: not summer
Page Views: 1,045
Submitted By: bernard on Sep 22, 2009
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Description 

a long, undulating arete to the right of Dreadlock, Fables/Whole Wheat, Modern Day Pirates, et al.

full value experience starts all the way on the ground. Stem up vertical and slightly overhanging gray, lichen-dusted dihedral just to the right of the arete proper....up to fractured features with overhanging components, up under a roof. Awkward movement out a small roof feature and onto a steep, slabby arete proper feature. Spectacular and airy here. It is also runout through here. You will pass an old, rusty ring angle piton. Do not harm this artifact....and admire the fact that somebody climbed here a long time ago.

Continue with well-considered moves up the arete. As you rise and as the arete becomes less distinctive, trend slightly on the right side of the areate up to a chunky, kind of unattractive roof. Pick your way through this and onto the slab finish shared by Dreadlock around to the left.

Sometimes a decent amount of vegetation and grapevine is growing in this roof area, which can complicate things if no one has pruned in awhile.

This is a classic climb. Terrific exposure. Perhaps the best route of its grade in the state. I suggest that the leader be well within the 5.8 ability level or above.

The route has subtle variations as one moves up to the arete proper component but i have found that sticking strictly to an alignment under the arete is best. In addition to the piton, i think there is an old fixed tri-cam on a left trending variation. This is a difficult route to top-rope due to length.

This is a full value route....it combines length, position, aesthetic movement, decent rock quality, and location on the cliffline to make for a spectacular climb. It delivers a great experience of the thrill of rockclimbing for the grade

Many people, before and after i first came here, climbed this route....but i have never known its true name


Location 

to the right of Dreadlock, Fables/Whole Wheat, Modern Day Pirates, et al. Ampitheater is 20 yards further.

The descent is a third class gulley around the corner from this climb. You pass it as you approach the area. There will be a faint trail along the cliff top. The descent gulley is not without risk

as with most all Steele climbs, there are no fixed belay anchors. Please do not install fixed anchors. Bring appropriate resources and skills to lead, finish, and safely second these routes without undue imposition on the environment


Protection 

standard Steele rack, hand pruners



Comments on (un-named) 5.7 arete Add Comment
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By bernard
From: birmingham, al
May 16, 2011

Yes - pink tricam

but no......i mean, was Lyle using ring angle pitons.....? My guess is the FA belongs to Rich Gottlieb.....and that Lyle's is a variation that uses many left-side-of-the-arete features....but eventually converges on the same finish path. Both versions are good.

By highneed
Jun 3, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

This is the best 5.7 I've done in the deep south, the postion and exposure are excellent. Still not a beginners route be comfortable on 5.8/5.9 before jumping on this offering.

By BHMBen
From: The Deeper South
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

I found not one, but THREE old pitons on this route yesterday. Very cool. How many can you find?