(un-named) 5.7 arete 5.7+
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| Type: | Trad, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | |
| Season: | not summer |
| Submitted By: | bernard on Sep 22, 2009 |
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Description a long, undulating arete to the right of Dreadlock, Fables/Whole Wheat, Modern Day Pirates, et al.
full value experience starts all the way on the ground. Stem up vertical and slightly overhanging gray, lichen-dusted dihedral just to the right of the arete proper....up to fractured features with overhanging components, up under a roof. Awkward movement out a small roof feature and onto a steep, slabby arete proper feature. Spectacular and airy here. It is also runout through here. You will pass an old, rusty ring angle piton. Do not harm this artifact....and admire the fact that somebody climbed here a long time ago.
Continue with well-considered moves up the arete. As you rise and as the arete becomes less distinctive, trend slightly on the right side of the areate up to a chunky, kind of unattractive roof. Pick your way through this and onto the slab finish shared by Dreadlock around to the left.
Sometimes a decent amount of vegetation and grapevine is growing in this roof area, which can complicate things if no one has pruned in awhile.
This is a classic climb. Terrific exposure. Perhaps the best route of its grade in the state. I suggest that the leader be well within the 5.8 ability level or above.
The route has subtle variations as one moves up to the arete proper component but i have found that sticking strictly to an alignment under the arete is best. In addition to the piton, i think there is an old fixed tri-cam on a left trending variation. This is a difficult route to top-rope due to length.
This is a full value route....it combines length, position, aesthetic movement, decent rock quality, and location on the cliffline to make for a spectacular climb. It delivers a great experience of the thrill of rockclimbing for the grade
Many people, before and after i first came here, climbed this route....but i have never known its true name
Location to the right of Dreadlock, Fables/Whole Wheat, Modern Day Pirates, et al. Ampitheater is 20 yards further.
The descent is a third class gulley around the corner from this climb. You pass it as you approach the area. There will be a faint trail along the cliff top. The descent gulley is not without risk
as with most all Steele climbs, there are no fixed belay anchors. Please do not install fixed anchors. Bring appropriate resources and skills to lead, finish, and safely second these routes without undue imposition on the environment
Protection standard Steele rack, hand pruners
| Comments on (un-named) 5.7 arete |
|
By bernard
From: birmingham, al
May 16, 2011
| Yes - pink tricam
but no......i mean, was Lyle using ring angle pitons.....? My guess is the FA belongs to Rich Gottlieb.....and that Lyle's is a variation that uses many left-side-of-the-arete features....but eventually converges on the same finish path. Both versions are good. |
By highneed
Jun 3, 2012
rating: 5.7 PG13
| This is the best 5.7 I've done in the deep south, the postion and exposure are excellent. Still not a beginners route be comfortable on 5.8/5.9 before jumping on this offering. |
By Br'er Rabbit
From: The Deeper South
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.7+
| I found not one, but THREE old pitons on this route yesterday. Very cool. How many can you find? |
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