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5.11d is the left-hand line of bolts up the black ...
A boulder problem passing the first bolt over a bulging block gets you established at the base of the steep headwall. Underclings, sidepulls, pockets, and some liebacking leads past three more bolts to the sandy crux finish and the anchors.
4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Rappel/lower off of chains. Easily TR'd after leading the 5.10d neighbor to the right.
This is the left-hand route located on the large boulder atop the Theology Crag. Approach by scrambling up the class-3 boulder and debris strewn gully on the north side of the Theology Crag, passing alongside Beggar's Banquet.
Things are getting steep!
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Aug 25, 2011
Is the big flake still attached to the wall? First ascent for both of these, Pat Briggs and Tony Becchio, maybe a couple of other guys too.
By Richard Shore
Aug 26, 2011
Steve, I think the flake you speak of is on the route Titanium Albatross, 5.12a. I have not done that line yet, but hope to get up there and give it a shot soon.