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The Canyon
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Acme Top Rope Wall S,TR 
Agua Negro S 
Before The Storm T,S 
Betty Does Brownsville S 
Bilbo Surfs Galveston S 
Booty Route, The S 
Brand X Top Rope Wall TR 
Hook 'em Horns S 
Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed up the water spout) S 
Leather & Lace  S 
Middle Earth T 
Pain at the Pump S 
Pick Pocket  S 
Pocket Change S 
Rise and Shine S 
Sophie's Choice S 
Spider's Line S 
Unknown S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Booty Route 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jeffrey Thomas & Rex Piper
Page Views: 801
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on Nov 10, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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The climber in the lower right foreground is on th...

Description 

The Booty Route climbs pockets, scoops, and edges on the steep west wall of The Canyon/east wall of The Hatchery. The route passes a bulge or small roof feature at mid-height. Surmounting the bulge directly is 5.11a, while moving left on juggy features is 5.10b. Above the bulge the angle decreases and the route follows the knobby slab to chains below a large cobble/block on the arĂȘte.

Location 

After entering the south end of The Canyon, and beyond the gap between The Egg and The Hatchery, this route is the 2nd line of bolts, on the left (west). It is just right of the spindly 12 feet tree. Identified by the bulge or small roof feature 35' up the wall.

Protection 

8 bolts & a two bolt anchor with chains.


Photos of The Booty Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The "Booty Route" about to claim another...
The "Booty Route" about to claim another...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff on Unknown 5.11
Jeff on Unknown 5.11
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice new bolts & well protected.
Nice new bolts & well protected.
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown 5.11
Unknown 5.11
Rock Climbing Photo: A determined leader successfully attains the 4th b...
A determined leader successfully attains the 4th b...
Rock Climbing Photo: The "Booty Route" claims another victim.
The "Booty Route" claims another victim.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the crux on the Booty Route.
Nearing the crux on the Booty Route.

Comments on The Booty Route Add Comment
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By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Nov 11, 2012

This is an excellent route, with a committing crux. There are two sets of anchors on the summit near the top of this route. To the right is a set of chains that allow a rappel into The Canyon with a 60 meter rope, and four bolts on the high point to the west. It is also possible to down climb to the south into the gap between The Egg and The Jukebox.
By Jeff Edge
Apr 29, 2013

Pretty neat, did it at the end of the day Saturday. This is actually the second line of bolts on that side of the canyon the first line is something that felt 5.7ish. If you're OK making a 40 or so foot run (basically solo) you can get to the anchors for this (and the other climbs) up some 5.easy above the top of that first route on the left.

Also, those 4 bolts no rings look like highline bolts rigged to go to the egg, haven't been to the top of the egg to see if there's any matching so I don't really know, anyone know?

Edit: "5.7ish" route turns out to be Sophie's Choice 5.9...hahah whoops
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Apr 30, 2013

There is a 4th class scramble (marked as 5.5 in Mayr's guide), from the notch between The Egg and the Hatchery, that is much easier than the approach you describe. There are no corresponding bolts on The Egg to suggest that there was ever a high line established. Bill Leventhal, et al. did attain the summit via a line tossed over the top, which may explain the 4 bolts, and I have made the Tyrolean a couple times.
By Tim Moore
Aug 23, 2013

Pretty fun route although the crux part is bolted rather weird. The rough either falls off to the right pretty far on some mono digit pockets that cause a large swing or it goes far to the left on some pretty easy jug stuff which is still a big swing.
By boogiehong
Dec 13, 2015

Hi, yesterday 12/12/15 my friend and I were climbing this route when he had a bad fall and injured himself. He had to be evacuated and is at the hospital recuperating. We left four quickdraws on this route. If you find them and retrieve them, if you can contact me, that would be great

Thank you
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Feb 7, 2016

Bolts anchor upgraded Sunday, January 31, 2016.

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