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YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a [details]
Page Views: 481
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on Nov 10, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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The climber in the lower right foreground is on th...


The Booty Route climbs pockets, scoops, and edges on the steep west wall of the First Corridor/east wall of The Jukebox. The route passes a bulge or small roof feature at mid-height. Surmounting the bulge directly is 5.11a, while moving left on juggy features is 5.10b. Above the bulge the angle decreases and the route follows the knobby slab, passing left of a large block on the arete, to the top. There are chains to the climber's right.


After entering the south end of The Canyon, and beyond the gap between The Egg and The Jukebox, this route is the 2nd line of bolts, on the left (west. It is just right of the spindly 12 feet tree. Identified by the bulge or small roof feature 35' up the wall, often with a quickdraw or carabiner on the 4th bolt.


7 bolts and a set of chains to the north. There is another anchor consisting of four bolts, to the west, but these are not rigged for rappelling.

Photos of a- Slideshow Add Photo
A determined leader successfully attains the 4th bolt on "The Booty Route." While not a red point, the leader was successful and didn't leave any "booty" on the route.
A determined leader successfully attains the 4th b...
The "Booty Route" about to claim another victim. On any given day one can observe a quickdraw or carabiner dangling from the 4th bolt of this route.
The "Booty Route" about to claim another...
The "Booty Route" claims another victim.
The "Booty Route" claims another victim.

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By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Nov 11, 2012

This is an excellent route, with a committing crux. There are two sets of anchors on the summit near the top of this route. To the right is a set of chains that allow a rappel into The Canyon with a 60 meter rope, and four bolts on the high point to the west. It is also possible to down climb to the south into the gap between The Egg and The Jukebox.
By Jeff Edge
Apr 29, 2013

Pretty neat, did it at the end of the day Saturday. This is actually the second line of bolts on that side of the canyon the first line is something that felt 5.7ish. If you're OK making a 40 or so foot run (basically solo) you can get to the anchors for this (and the other climbs) up some 5.easy above the top of that first route on the left.

Also, those 4 bolts no rings look like highline bolts rigged to go to the egg, haven't been to the top of the egg to see if there's any matching so I don't really know, anyone know?

Edit: "5.7ish" route turns out to be Sophie's Choice 5.9...hahah whoops
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Apr 30, 2013

There is a 4th class scramble (marked as 5.5 in Mayr's guide), from the notch between The Egg and the Hatchery, that is much easier than the approach you describe. There are no corresponding bolts on The Egg to suggest that there was ever a high line established. Bill Leventhal, et al. did attain the summit via a line tossed over the top, which may explain the 4 bolts, and I have made the Tyrolean a couple times.
By Tim Moore
Aug 23, 2013

Pretty fun route although the crux part is bolted rather weird. The rough either falls off to the right pretty far on some mono digit pockets that cause a large swing or it goes far to the left on some pretty easy jug stuff which is still a big swing.