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Unknown 5.10+ 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Duane Anderton
Page Views: 631
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 29, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A somewhat-intimidating-looking jug haul on broken-appearing rock that climbs through two roofs.

Begin either from a comfortable belay position at the base of the cliff or from an okay ledge about 20 feet up (the ledge can be reached by scrambling past two bolts on 3rd or 4th class terrain, or by walking left, up a scree slope, and approaching from the left).

Once at the ledge, clip a bolt that is about chest-high on the arete to the right. Find pockets and sidepulls and continue up and over the first roof.

Take the left of the two bolt lines that are before you, figure out a blank-looking section and then climb up to and through the larger roof. If you aren't using jugs, you're not looking hard enough.

Location 

Starts to the left of a rounded buttress with two bolted routes (Unknown 5.9 and Unknown 5.10a).

Shares the start with Unknown 5.10c

Approach as to Hard Rock Wall, when you get to the top of the slope, head left to new Hard Rock West area. Continue west past the terraced area to newer climbs.

Protection 

About 9 bolts, or 11 bolts counting the two bolts on the lower-angled terrain. (Forgot to count them, so don't rely on this for the precise count.)


Comments on Unknown 5.10+ Add Comment
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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Sep 29, 2011

When I was first told about this line I was told it is a 5.11a. I thought the first roof was the hardest part, so if that's true, it can't be any harder than the line with which it shares the start (Unknown 5.10c).

Be a bit wary of this line. At some point some of the upper roof is going to come off. It seems fairly solid now, but is hollow-sounding when you hit it with your hand. You don't want to be around if it decides to take flight.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Dec 4, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Totally agree about that block - perfect freeze/thaw accident waiting to happen. Wonder if pouring some glue in there could stop the inevitable for awhile anyway?
By Aaron Shields
From: Lehi, UT
Aug 2, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Great climb, but agree that it's not tougher than 5.10c/d. Psychologically, this climb is tough because of the loose stuff. Most of the upper roof is due to come down any time now; it felt pretty loose, and I wasn't thrilled about using it. If you climb this, put your belayer at the bottom, under the 5.4 scramble so they have more protection and some time to react. When it does come off, maybe it will be 5.11a.
By Dillon Vesper
Nov 16, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

great climb, little sketchy with the loose rock but some awesome exposure here! looks harder than what it really is, after pulling that first roof its smooth sailing to the top!'
By Ryan Arnold
Mar 10, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Gets PG-13 from me until someone takes a crowbar to that torso-sized block on the upper roof. Funner route than I expected.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Mar 10, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

PG-13? How about X? That thing could coming off would be bad news! Climbed it again yesterday and kicked it a bit on the way down, seemed relatively solid but very worrisome to me.