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New York Reload 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Estes Park locals, equipped by Joe Vallone & friend
Page Views: 401
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Nov 28, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Jay rocks on.

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Description 

This is the third from the left of the 4 sport climbs put in late 2012 on the far right side of the 1st Pew. It ascends a small roof to a better-than-it-looks face above that gets you dancing.

Carefully climb up & clip the 1st bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13). There is a hollow flake left of the bolt. Reach up to the jug & clip bolt 2 (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13). High step left and rock on. Move onto the delightful face with nice edges. Weave your way up on small but positive edges. Find a crux around the 6th bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13) where you must trust your feet (your right fingertips are loathe to crank on that toothy hold). After the 7th bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13), you may find slightly bigger holds to the left. Finish at the 2 bolt Fixe ring anchors (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13).

Rappel 60' or continue up to Georgia Style.

These bolts sport 3 different colored hangers, red, gray, and black, because those were the ones that came out of the bag next.

Joe wrote that he and his friend equipped the route, gave a friend the opportunity for the FA, and his friend really didn't seem to care about the name, but "Father's Sauce" was getting thrown around quite a bit, since it fit with the other names used for the neighboring routes.

Given the recent bolt chopping, this is a TR at best.

Location 

This is the 3rd from the left of the 4 sport climbs on the far right side of the 1st Pew.

Protection 

7 bolts (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13), 2 bolt anchor (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13).


Photos of New York Reload Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay weaves his way upward.
Jay weaves his way upward.

Comments on New York Reload Add Comment
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By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
Dec 4, 2012

I always give my routes rave reviews, too.
By s.kimball
Feb 25, 2013

The gang loved this 5.10 route, and keeping with current events, I think it's named "New York Reload".
By Jason Ball
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 2, 2014

With all that stuff about the bolts being removed, did they actually pull them and not replace them? Is this still a sport climb?

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