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Marble Tea 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 819
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jun 6, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: The Wall

Description 

Don't let the easier climbing down low lull you into complacency; this route saves its hardest moves for the last 20' or so, culminating with a very marginal stance for clipping the anchors that may send you on a long ride.

Climb a thin face to a spacious ledge and take a breather. More face climbing will bring you to an overlap (crux #1); move up on crimpers to a seam below a roof. Make a couple of long moves to juggy holds in the roof, then throw for a sloper at the top and try to hold on long enough to clip the anchors.

Location 

Starts about 10' right of Unknown #1.

Protection 

Five bolts; open shut anchors. If you're not comfortable with a fair amount of runout between bolts, bring a few small cams for pro.


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By marc girardot
Sep 25, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

8 bolts as of 9/23/11.
By marc girardot
Nov 1, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

60-65 feet.