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Another classic Trout twin-crack stembox. Fire through the low, fingery crux to the better jams and enjoyable traverse up high. Feels reminiscent of Space Mission, but a full number grade easier.
This is the third climb left of Suzuki. It has an obvious leftward traverse that finishes at the chains of the neighboring route. (U3)
Double rack from BD 0.3-2 with one #3 should suffice. Slings might help managing the rope for the finishing traverse.
Saar crushing it - pic by Jessie LaFleur
Jan 4, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Really fun route! I have never used the right crack in this 'double crack'. The right crack is quite thin, but you can stem on it a bit. The traverse is easily done- sling a cam early to prevent drag. Do it!