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Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>
Stay tuned for an announcement of the transfer to the County, as well as an upcoming celebration at Golden Cliffs to commemorate the legacy of Mayford Peery, who donated the cliffs to the Access Fund in 1994. The event will celebrate 20 years of Access Fund ownership and officially present Golden Cliffs to Jefferson County Open Space.
This route follows the arete just left of Raw Fish and Rice. The moves are interesting and the bottom half is quite sustained for 5.10 -- with a powerful sequential mantle (kind of) move above the third bolt. I found this climb to be quite good for the area. Climb up the left side of arete to clip the first bolt, then commit to the face on the RHS of the arete. Ring anchors for lowering.
By Dan Dalton From: Boulder, CO Oct 15, 2008 rating: 5.10b/c6b20VII20E2 5b
I hear there is a new guidebook coming out soon, so I hope it will shed some light on this route. Quite a stellar and fun outing for sure, if you turn the arete sooner at the bottom it makes for a more interesting climb. Not terribly powerful and great holds everywhere, just very balancy and technical. I think a good name for this route would be 'Balancing Act'. At any rate, felt like 10b/c to me, a little easier if you bail far right instead of staying on the face up top.
Climbing the right side of the arete is a must do. Way fun bouldery moves. Power and balance make the moves fun and easier. I'm not an expert on shady bolts or chains, but I do like shiny ones instead of the rusty ones at the top of this climb.
Very fun arete. The crux move is at the top of the arete as you start into the crack. Its very smeary but just trust your hands they will hold. Very balancy in the bottom section. If you are around here, definitely give it a shot.