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Atlantis Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Above the .11 S 
Black Bart (aka Unknown 1) S 
Dam The Water Board T 
Drefach Lambda S 
Fluff Boys T,S 
Hot Lava (aka Soliloquy) T 
Island Rhythm TR 
Leper, The TR 
Mermaid (AKA: unknown 2) S 
Missing The Dike aka Two Dikes for Dinner S 
Natives are Restless, The TR 
No Bore a Bora T 
Sea Serpent (aka: Unknown 4) S 
Seventh Wave T,S 
Snark Hunt T 
This Bolt's For You T 
Tim's Variation TR 
Tim's Walkway S 
Transformer T 
Trident (aka: Unknown 3) TR 
Unknown TR TR 
Unsupervised Bolting S 

Mermaid (AKA: unknown 2) 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 299
Submitted By: rob bauer on Nov 22, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Alex getting ready to net a Mermaid. Lin is belayi...

Description 

This is not my route, but it is another one for the database.
Bad name: how about Mermaid?

It is a long way to the 1st bolt on what is essentially a 2 bolt climb, but the crux is probably at the bottom, depending how close to the water streak you start. Climbing far right is easiest. It's friable everywhere.

Location 

This is now the 5th bolt line [route #4 (L->R) in Haas book] about 80'(?) right of Black Bart. Start on a wide, clean area between trees, just right of a water streak on the left third of the dome.

Protection 

3 bolts, including the directional on the wall. Move the belay 20' right to a 2 bolt anchor with chains. A 60m rope will work if you want to belay from the ground.


Photos of Mermaid (AKA: unknown 2) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A rope on the route.
BETA PHOTO: A rope on the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ralph Kolva at the 2nd bolt of Unknown (#4 in the ...
Ralph Kolva at the 2nd bolt of Unknown (#4 in the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The area above the 2nd bolt.
BETA PHOTO: The area above the 2nd bolt.

Comments on Mermaid (AKA: unknown 2) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
May 27, 2014

The 3rd directional bolt is on the ledge below the overhand and cannot be seen from the base. No more friable rock than on almost all South Platte routes, expect a few micro flakes and crystals to come off. While the 1st bolt is a ways up, the diagonal seam makes getting to it fairly solid, but be prepared for the runout above the 2nd bolt. While the top off is over easier ground, messing up might land you on on your belayer. The anchor is roughly 20 to the right of the directional bolt and is shared by the following 3 or 4 climbs.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Oct 19, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

I thought the crux on this was just above the 2nd bolt. It quickly gets easier, but the moves here are solid. The new book says it is 5.8-, but I think it is 5.8 or maybe even 8+ like it is listed here. It is not too scary getting to the first bolt, but a fall would be disastrous.

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