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Beached Whale (Unknown 2) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 173
Submitted By: rob bauer on Dec 29, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Phil venturing into the unknown.

Description 

This is not mine, but it is an interesting route with 2 cruxes.

The 1st bolt is hidden in a dish about 10' up, just left of that tree (not the best place; it may actually be for Easy Out). I didn't use it, since I started a few feet to the left, angling slightly toward the big ledge with obvious bolts in the headwall. Surmount this and get to the bulgy crux (where I executed a Beached Whale maneuver). I believe the original line went over the bulge using the crack 4' left, but the new bolts go straight up to the anchor.

Pretty nifty!


Location 

This is near the center of the wall, just left of Easy Out (a right-tending diagonal seam covered by a tree leaning against face). You can see a bolt in a face 20+ feet up.


Protection 

6 or 7 bolts to double chain anchors.



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Enjoying the route.
Enjoying the route.
Just below the crux.
Just below the crux.
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