|Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag
This is one of the nicer lines at this crag. It ascends a slab to an overlap in the center of the northwest aspect of this crag.
The start is kind of weird. There is a bolt clippable from the ground on the right, ignore it. Ascend the right side of this nook past a bolt. Moving up you could clip a bolt on this block on the right, but I wouldn't. Step up onto a nice slab past 3 more bolts to an overlap. Choice time. You could force a double undercling, get your feet up move over the overlap or you can move slightly right and more gracefully surmount the overlap. Continue up to the 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks on the left, 70', or go up higher to yet another 2 bolt anchor, ~85-90'. The higher set of anchors will add rope drag.
Others have provided a name, Thunderhead. This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.
Go up the obvious slab to the overlap on the northwest aspect of this face. It is just left of the "ear route" which starts on less-appealing terrain with rock scars.
|Comments on Unknown 10 aka Thunderhead
Jun 11, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
At the overhang, you can either go straight up the bolt line to thin hands/slopy side pulls (my book calls this 11...) or use the crack 2 feet to the right, (with the bolts just at your left hip) 10b,
one of the more interesting climbs at the crag, & well-protected.