Unknown 1  5.10a

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Type:  Sport, 30 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Ryan Kelly on Sep 24, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The route ascends the center of the choss face.

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New Access Difficulties MORE INFO >>> A new fence laced in razor wire has been erected on the far end of the dam where you used to hop over. Skirting around is a trivial matter, but I'm unsure how the message should be interpreted. There are no new signs indicating closures, and you can still hike over from Stumbling Blocks/Ghetto Wall. If anything the fence is going to have more of an effect on the hikers trying to do the loop than the climbers. On the plus side, I've never seen it so empty at this area. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Two new routes were put up on the face around the corner from Electric Eye, one goes up the aręte on the left, the other up the face. They still need a lot of cleaning, especially this one (the face route). I pulled off a key hold coming over the roof and manually removed two other loose pieces earlier on the route. Even when clean this will be OK at best.

Half the route involves climbing up a slab filled with huge huecos; 5.7 climbing at most. By this time you will have two of the three bolts clipped. The second half of the wall goes vertical in a slight dihedral and is actually kind of fun. There’s only about two stemming moves then you pull the roof and walk up the slab to the anchors.

Location 

On the face around the corner from Electric Eye. This route climbs the center of the face, to the right of the bolted aręte.

Protection 

3 bolts to open shuts.