This isn't my route, but lets's post it to the database. (I hate "unknowns," so I'm arbitrarily calling it Black Bart.)
This whole dome is a bit friable and IMHO, this was 10c. I thought it good. Let's see what you think?
This is the 3rd route, L->R, in the new book, about 25' right of Drefach Lambda. It angles up left from just left of a big pine, in the wide, black streak.
6 good bolts to a two bolt anchor.
BETA PHOTO: It doesn't look like much from this vantage, but d...
|Comments on Unknown 1 (tentative: Black Bart)
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Jan 25, 2014
The polished rock makes this climb very difficult to rate.
IMO it's closer to 10d (maybe even 11a).
Also, IMHO a name should not be given to a route just because the original is unknown.
What's wrong with just putting it down as UKN?
|By Ralph Kolva|
From: Evergreen, CO
May 27, 2014
Agree with Locker, this climb is polished (didn't notice any friable sections on this one although plenty of it on other routes here) and harder than 5.10 on the lower section.
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Jun 2, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I actually managed to lead this route once: I think I came off something like 20 times before managing to make it up the lower section. It is very slippery, and the movement is on really tenuous holds. The upper section is fun 5.8 or 5.9.
I have no reservations saying it is much harder than a 10a in the lower section. The falls are clean and it is well bolted, though.