unknown- aka "Firecracker"
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BETA PHOTO: Dean on First Attempt
P1: 10+ fingers to fists, P2: 5.11OW- hand stacks, chicken wings & froggy feet! look forward to 2 bolts on this pitch! P3: difficult bombay squeeze to ???
about 40min up trail and just a few min before the pass follow a ledge system around to the south the beautiful parallel ow of 2nd pitch will be obvious.
doubles to #3 Camalot, 1 #3.5, #4, dbl #4.5 & #5. Rap once w/ 2 60M ropes or twice (but expect to need to equip lower bolts for rappel.)
|Photos of unknown- aka "Firecracker" Slideshow
pitch 2 handstacks!
BETA PHOTO: the route
|Comments on unknown- aka "Firecracker"
|By Dean Hoffman|
Oct 14, 2012
Sooo here is my breakdown:
Pitch 1: harder than it looks, short but steep and tricky fingers crux to hands/big hands up to a sweet ledge belay. I would recommend singles up to yellow metolius, doubles up to BD #3, a 3.5, and a 4 Camalot.
Pitch 2: amazingly clean, splitter OW, 90ft of sustained hand stacks getting progressively wider. Two mankey old bolts on this pitch, one truly awesome jug and an in yer face way cool finish. This pitch rivals any OW at the Creek and the scenery is spectacular. Leave everything smaller than #4 Camalot at the belay and start yer hand stacking. I took doubles from #4(old) through # 6 (new). That being said a "confident" 11+OW leader would probably be fine with one #5 and a set of hexes...
P3: uninspiring looking squeeze OW?
P2:anchors are kitted out with chains and it's a clean rap with 2 60m.
This route was awesome, awesome, awesome! Go climb it!
|By Dean Hoffman|
Nov 6, 2012
So was on the ledge system above Firecracker today and didn't spot any anchors above the 2nd pitch... FAists may have continued up, or perhaps rapped from the top of the second, my recommendation. If you do persevere there are anchors on the upper ledge to climbers left that will take you down, you should be able to walk a relatively flat ledge to the station. Three raps with one 70 will put you on the ground.