This route is about 20ft. left of "Trip to the Vet" and is the thin, right facing tips corner. Somewhat slabby with a few edges for feet make this route feel a bit more secure. The gear is good, but a little spaced in places. There is a gear anchor with webbing about 60ft. up.
thin gear to finger size. Aliens are useful.
|Comments on Unknown - Route 24
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 20, 2006
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b
The bottom 2/3 of this route are total fun and not hard at all (5.9-) but then comes the crux. A few small nuts would be well-placed at the bottom of each of the chalked-up "tips" crimps in the corner. Yeah, tips, whatever... more like a #3-#4 BD stopper. The tiny, red micro-camalot is the perfect gear for aiding the crux move.
It appeared to me that stemming is key on this route, but I am not sure because I got totally rejected. But I flashed a few 11+ routes last trip. In fact, this is the only Indian Creek "5.11+" that I have ever been unable to do the moves on. Can we give it 5.12-? Wait a minute... I've never been on a I.C. 5.12- that I couldn't do the moves on either!
Nov 30, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
kind of a 2 move hard layback. hard to grade as it is easy except for these 2 moves, where you have to bear down pretty hard. a minor toe divot aids the layback slightly. ballnuts useful here.