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University of Santa Clara Practice Climb 1 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,893
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 8, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Sallie navigating past one of the several cruxes o...
Reopened! Permit Required (see details) MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Located towards the left side of the lower tier, this route is obvious because of the honeycomb lattice at the top of the route.

Giant crimpy moves and overhung eyecandy make you forget that you're on a slab, and that you don't have to do pullups the whole way up.

The first bolt is a little unncessary, especially since a better place to belay on this route will be above it.

Part of the fun is figuring out a comfortable position to clean the anchor at the top.


Protection 

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

(10/7/2007) Beware the top anchor, as one of the bolts is wobbling.



Photos of University of Santa Clara Practice Climb 1 Slideshow Add Photo
Steve is cleaning up the anchor... this pic shows all but 5 feet of the route.
Steve is cleaning up the anchor... this pic shows ...
I told him the climbs ends at the anchors but no, he had to climb higher!  As there was no protection higher up, he quickly backed off...
I told him the climbs ends at the anchors but no, ...
Naoko on the lower section getting past the first crux.
Naoko on the lower section getting past the first ...
Naoko at the final anchors!  A happy camper... I mean climber!
Naoko at the final anchors! A happy camper... I m...
Naoko climbing past one of the upper cruxes.
Naoko climbing past one of the upper cruxes.
Bear at the beginning of Santa Clara Practice Climb 1
Bear at the beginning of Santa Clara Practice Clim...
Comments on University of Santa Clara Practice Climb 1 Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Apr 22, 2005

It is a great first sport lead for someone.

By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Jul 25, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I figured this route would be a straight-forward sport route but I had more trouble on it than I care to admit. Granted my hands were only 75% functional from a previous accident but I constantly felt I was on an overhanging wall throughout much of the climb and felt awkward. Clipping one or two of the bolts was very difficult for me. I would say that this is a difficult lead for a 5.8 or 5.9 climber. But then again, others may feel more comfortable with this type of climbing. It was the first climb in the area so maybe the second time around I would be less stressed. All in all, a good climb. A humbling one, but a good one!

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 2, 2005

To avoid a pendulum fall on toprope, leave the rope clipped into the last quickdraw before the anchors. Otherwise you could be faced with a nasty swing into a dihedral.

By rhyang
From: San Jose, CA
Oct 19, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Enjoyable sport lead.

By Tom Allen
Oct 10, 2007

I lead this route this Sunday (10/7/07). The right anchor bolt is loose not just spinning but wobbling, maybe a quarter inch back and forth: not good. Im not qualified to re-bolt it; otherwise Id replace it myself. As for a first sport lead choose something safer. The climbing is reasonably easy (remember to use the slab to the right, instead of just hanging from the swiss cheese) and the clipping stances are decent. However, there are too many ledges etc. to hit if you do fall. This was my first outdoor lead and, looking back, I dont think it was a very good idea.

By amc
May 22, 2013

Does anyone know the status of that loose anchor bolt?