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 ADVANCED
Universal Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dozey Brat 
Dr. West, Millionaire 
Dream Machine S 
Equator S 
Fighting Irish S 
Magna Headwall S 
Palm Pilot S 
Rapid Eye Movement 
Switchback  T 
X Marks The Start S 
Unsorted Routes:

Universal Crag  


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Page Views: 3,774
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jim Redo on Oct 29, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon Modified from origin...

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Description 

This is one of the steeper walls in Dream Canyon. Seven routes grace this crag two of witch are projects. 5.11 is the easiest climb then mid 5.12 then .13+. All are relatively short compared to the other Dream routes so all you need is one rope and about 12 draws.

L->R:

A. X Marks The Start, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. Palm Pilot, 13+, 1p, 40' bolts.
C. Fighting Irish, 12+, 1p, 40', gear.
D. Summarete, 13?, 1p, bolts.
E. Dream Machine, 12, 1p, 75', bolts.
F. Equator, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
G. Switchback , 11-, 1p, gear.
H. Magna Headwall, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts.
I. Cum Laude Overhang, 12, 1p, bolts.
J. Temptress, 9, 1p, gear.

Getting There 

This crag is downriver and across the river from "Lost Angel". When the river is high there is a wood bridge you can cross at the downriver end of the Lost Angel crag. Alternatively if the river is low you can rock hop across the river. Semi-hidden from Lost Angel this little crag is only a 5 minute downriver hike once you cross the wood bridge. Morning_early afternoon sun.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.1 miles from here

10 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Universal Crag:
Equator   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Universal Crag

Featured Route For Universal Crag
Fighting Irish dihedral. Photo: Bob Horan.

Fighting Irish 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b  CO : Boulder : ... : Universal Crag
This pitch is one route right of Palm Pilot. A bloody powerful punch in under 15 moves. Ascend a 25 foot slab to get to the real climbing. Clip a couple of directional bolts to keep the rope out of your way then head up the dihedral. Sidepull and stem your way up for four bolts to the anchors. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Universal Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Universal Crag: Photo: Bob Horan.
Universal Crag: Photo: Bob Horan.
The Universal Crag.
The Universal Crag.

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