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Universal Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dozey Brat 
Dr. West, Millionaire 
Dream Machine S 
Equator S 
Fighting Irish S 
Magna Headwall S 
Palm Pilot S 
Rapid Eye Movement 
Switchback  T 
X Marks The Start S 
Unsorted Routes:

Universal Crag Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 2,734
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: Jim Redo on Oct 29, 2003
Forecast:
Today

40° | 29°
Tuesday

48° | 28°
Wednesday

51° | 29°
Thursday

49° | 28°
Friday

48° | 27°
Saturday

49° | 29°
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BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon Modified from origin...

Description 

This is one of the steeper walls in Dream Canyon. Seven routes grace this crag two of witch are projects. 5.11 is the easiest climb then mid 5.12 then .13+. All are relatively short compared to the other Dream routes so all you need is one rope and about 12 draws.

L->R:

A. X Marks The Start, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. Palm Pilot, 13+, 1p, 40' bolts.
C. Fighting Irish, 12+, 1p, 40', gear.
D. Summarete, 13?, 1p, bolts.
E. Dream Machine, 12, 1p, 75', bolts.
F. Equator, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
G. Switchback , 11-, 1p, gear.
H. Magna Headwall, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts.
I. Cum Laude Overhang, 12, 1p, bolts.
J. Temptress, 9, 1p, gear.

Getting There 

This crag is downriver and across the river from "Lost Angel". When the river is high there is a wood bridge you can cross at the downriver end of the Lost Angel crag. Alternatively if the river is low you can rock hop across the river. Semi-hidden from Lost Angel this little crag is only a 5 minute downriver hike once you cross the wood bridge. Morning_early afternoon sun.

Climbing Season

For the Upper Dream Canyon area.

Weather station 5.1 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Universal Crag
Rock Climbing Photo: Fighting Irish dihedral. Photo: Bob Horan.

Fighting Irish 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b  CO : Boulder : ... : Universal Crag
This pitch is one route right of Palm Pilot. A bloody powerful punch in under 15 moves. Ascend a 25 foot slab to get to the real climbing. Clip a couple of directional bolts to keep the rope out of your way then head up the dihedral. Sidepull and stem your way up for four bolts to the anchors. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Universal Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Universal Crag: Photo: Bob Horan.
Universal Crag: Photo: Bob Horan.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Universal Crag.
The Universal Crag.

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