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This is one of the steeper walls in Dream Canyon. Seven routes grace this crag two of witch are projects. 5.11 is the easiest climb then mid 5.12 then .13+. All are relatively short compared to the other Dream routes so all you need is one rope and about 12 draws.
This crag is downriver and across the river from "Lost Angel". When the river is high there is a wood bridge you can cross at the downriver end of the Lost Angel crag. Alternatively if the river is low you can rock hop across the river. Semi-hidden from Lost Angel this little crag is only a 5 minute downriver hike once you cross the wood bridge. Morning_early afternoon sun.
10 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Universal Crag
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Universal Crag:
Rapid Eye Movement V6 7a PG13 Boulder, 10'
Dr. West, Millionaire V7+ 7a+ R Boulder, 12'
X Marks The Start 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Equator 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Dream Machine 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Fighting Irish 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For Universal Crag
Dream Machine 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b CO : Boulder : ... : Universal Crag
Climbs the jutting overhang on left side of Universal Crag, left of Equator right of Fighting Irish. Climb up to the roof, 5.12b/c, then up and out to headwall, 5.11, to a two bolt anchor. 8 bolts. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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