This is one of the steeper walls in Dream Canyon. Seven routes grace this crag two of witch are projects. 5.11 is the easiest climb then mid 5.12 then .13+. All are relatively short compared to the other Dream routes so all you need is one rope and about 12 draws.
This crag is downriver and across the river from "Lost Angel". When the river is high there is a wood bridge you can cross at the downriver end of the Lost Angel crag. Alternatively if the river is low you can rock hop across the river. Semi-hidden from Lost Angel this little crag is only a 5 minute downriver hike once you cross the wood bridge. Morning_early afternoon sun.
Browse More Classics in Universal Crag
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Universal Crag:
X Marks The Start 5.10b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Equator 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Dream Machine 5.12b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
Fighting Irish 5.12+ Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Featured Route For Universal Crag
Fighting Irish 5.12+ CO : Boulder : ... : Universal Crag
This pitch is one route right of Palm Pilot. A bloody powerful punch in under 15 moves. Ascend a 25 foot slab to get to the real climbing. Clip a couple of directional bolts to keep the rope out of your way then head up the dihedral. Sidepull and stem your way up for four bolts to the anchors. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO