I'm sure you have found yourself in the same situation, thumbing through the guidebook looking for somewhere you haven't been a hundred times. I had always looked at this cliff in the book,thinking it would be worth checking out, but just never made it there. Even though this cliff was bolted in the early 90's, it still has a bit more fragile rock than other cliffs of the same era. It seems that this little cliff has seen only a small amount of traffic in 20 years.
Hike down to the Circus Wall from the parking area and scramble up and right from there. Head east for about 5 minutes and you will come to the Cactus Massacre wall. Once here, head up the gully to the north, and you will see the steep wall up and right.
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Prime Ticket 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c NV : Red Rock : ... : Universal City
The only reason I did not give this thing four stars is the fact that the holds seem fragile in places. However, this is a great route. Start off of the top of the boulder at the right end of the cliff. Through the first section there is some questionable rock, but you can avoid pulling on it by using some of the sweet pockets that show up just when you want them. Once past the first two bolts, you will find yourself at a rest at a horizontal break below the bulge above. Here is where the p...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
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