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 ADVANCED
East Ridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Babyback T 
Edgemaster S 
Everpresent Lane T 
Exile S 
Fluorescent Gray T,S 
Fountain of Youth T,S 
Galactic Warrior T 
Haywire T 
Ilga Grimpeur S 
Iron Cross T,S 
Kent's Krack T,TR 
Knack, The T 
Lightning Bolt Arete T,S 
Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber S 
Stealth Slab Downclimb T 
Superguide T 
Unity T 

Unity 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Roger Briggs 1974, solo
Page Views: 199
Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Sep 21, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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  • Description 

    This is a very short climb in the dihedral to the right of the climb "Babyback". While short, it is a good climb, and is worth it if you are up there doing the other routes on the East Ridge. Lieback up a short, thin, right-facing dihedral with slippery feet for about 25 feet or so to the top. Since it leans right, the crack somewhat forces you out onto the face for your feet, and some crimpers. Put this one in the "only if it was longer" category!


    Protection 

    Only need a handful of smaller-mid sized gear. There are good placements for a .75 cam, and a #2, and if you are in need, a couple Aliens or smaller stoppers can go in-between.



    Comments on Unity Add Comment
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    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Sep 23, 2003

    Interestingly, Boulder Climbs South lists it as a 5.8, the topo from Best of Boulder lists it as 5.8+, and the most recent Flatirons guide lists it as 5.9. Easier to follow than lead. Nice dimples/scoops on the R face.

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Oct 29, 2006
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c PG13

    The face down low is dirty and a little runout- the rock may be brittle in spots, so mind he pro you'd get carefully. THe upper half has wonderful pockets and scoops on the right side of the corner, but not enough to make up for the poor lower 1/2 of the climb. 2 stars for the top 30', but only one overall.