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Location: 54.4189, -2.0215 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 448,386
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Aug 12, 2007
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Stanage Edge in the Peak District

Description 

Climbing in the United Kingdom offers a large variety of climbing, on a number of rock types in remote mountainous regions as well as many urban venues. The climbing is split into regions, with the main areas being England, Scotland and Wales. Each individual country is then separated into distinct climbing areas.

In addition to the climbs themselves climbers who are new to the area will be confronted with two, sometimes distressing things, the unique grading system, and the fickle British weather. The weather at many areas can change numerous times in a day, and rarely stays the same (good or bad) for long. When the weather is bad, you could visit one of the climbing walls dotted around, however, you will have a much better time visiting one of the many excellent pubs which are sure to be close at hand.

The grading system can be confusing to new comers, but when understood the combination of the technical grade (4a, 4b, 4c, 5a, 5b, 5c, etc.) and the adjective grade (Severe, Very Severe, Hard Very Severe, Extremely Severe which is subdivided into E1, E2, E3, E4, etc.)gives you a good understanding from the outset on the technical difficulty of the climb, its sustained nature, as well as the seriousness. In summary an E1 6a tell you that the route has probably only one 6a move, which is either close to the bottom of the climb or very well protected, while an E5 6a, tells you the route is sustained and could well be a serious lead.


Getting There 

The easiest way is to fly into one of the major airports. Probably the most common will be London Heathrow. From there hire a car and tour around. Alternatively you can travel around using public transport (trains and buses), but you’ll find that only works for certain areas, close to urban settlements.

Climbing Season



Weather station 21.8 miles from here

1,388 Total Routes

['4 Stars',213],['3 Stars',333],['2 Stars',389],['1 Star',397],['Bomb',26]
['<=5.6',322],['5.7',109],['5.8',139],['5.9',144],['5.10',300],['5.11',87],['5.12',29],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',54],['V2-3',125],['V4-5',40],['V6-7',17],['V8-9',6],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',4],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for United Kingdom:
Deliverance   V8 7B     Boulder, 15'   Stanage Edge : Plantation Bouldering
Little Chamonix   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 4 pitches, 210'   Borrowdale Valley : Shepherds Crag
Flying Buttress   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 55'   Christmas Crack : The Flying Buttress
Flying Buttress   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 5 pitches, 275'   North Side : Dinas Cromlech
Heaven Crack   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 30'   B.A.W.s Area : Saliva Buttress
Creagh Dhu Wall   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 180'   Craig y Castell - Crag of t... : Main Wall
Troutdale Pinnacle   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 6 pitches, 350'   Borrowdale Valley : Black Crag
Bond Street   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 75'   Millstone Edge : London Wall Area
Cemetery Gates   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   North Side : Dinas Cromlech
The Knight's Move   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 50'   Burbage North : Hollyash Wall
Old Man of Hoy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 460'   Scotland : Orkney Islands.. and the Ol...
Right Unconquerable   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 45'   The Unconquerables Area : Unconquerable Buttress
A Dream of White Horses   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   Anglesey : Gogarth
Kipling Groove   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 135'   Great Langdale : Gimmer Crag
Centurion   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 7 pitches, 650'   Ben Nevis : Carn Dearg Buttress
Chequers Buttress   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 43'   Froggatt Edge : Chequers Buttress
Left Unconquerable   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 45'   The Unconquerables Area : Unconquerable Buttress
Flying Buttress Direct   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Christmas Crack : The Flying Buttress
Fern Hill   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Cratcliffe Tor : Owl Gully
Cenotaph Corner   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   North Side : Dinas Cromlech
Browse More Classics in United Kingdom

Featured Route For United Kingdom
Crux punch on Too Hard Too High, V5+

Too Hard Too High V5+ 6C+ PG13  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : West Block
Sit start below the obvious pinch hold.Gain the pinch hold with little trouble, then with considerably more trouble use it to gain the jug 2 feet higher.With jug at hand steady yourself for the moves up the wall to the finish....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of United Kingdom Slideshow Add Photo
Borrowdale Valley, Derwentwater. Lake District, November 2013
Borrowdale Valley, Derwentwater. Lake District, No...
Climbing in Borrowdale .. The Bludgeon E1
Climbing in Borrowdale .. The Bludgeon E1
Thirlmere Lake
Thirlmere Lake
Skiddaw Mt above town of Keswick ..Lake District NW England
Skiddaw Mt above town of Keswick ..Lake District N...
The Borrowdale Valley, English Lake District. Best airport to reach this area from US is fly to Manchester in the north of England.
The Borrowdale Valley, English Lake District. Best...
Derwentwater , Lake District
Derwentwater , Lake District
Thirlmere Lake and Blencathra Mt, NW England
Thirlmere Lake and Blencathra Mt, NW England
The Lake District, NW England. Lots of climbing in this area with beautiful lakes and mountains.
The Lake District, NW England. Lots of climbing in...
Saddleback (Blencathra) Mt about 5 miles from Keswick.
Saddleback (Blencathra) Mt about 5 miles from Kesw...
Skiddaw 3054', Third highest hill in the Lake District. The town of Keswick lies at its base.
Skiddaw 3054', Third highest hill in the Lake Dist...
Looking towards Great Gable on the right and Englands highest mountain Scafell Pike 3250'
Looking towards Great Gable on the right and Engla...

Comments on United Kingdom Add Comment
Show which comments
By roger reid
May 23, 2010
As an ex-pat I was delighted with the Description sections. "Perfick. Just perfick".
But the list of outstanding routes.... Well, of course anyone who has the temerity to put forward a short list is putting his/her head above the parapet. No harm in that; indeed, much welcomed. But no mention of something(s) on "Cloggy", or on the sea cliffs? There must be sound reasoning for this list, but I am unsure of the reasoning. (Great "One pitch Wonders", perhaps?)
What would Jim Perrin, say, list as his recommended Top Ten? If he strongly supported this list then I am pretty sure I would fall off my armchair laughing at myself! This is NOT a criticism, but a big curiosity. Thanks for the page. Climb on!
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
May 23, 2010
The "Classics" list is an automatically generated list that is added to parent area pages on MP. The list is created by selectively including routes that have been given classic (4 stars) status by the original poster. If you post up routes that you have done and give them 4 stars because you think they are a classic the route may well get included. Also note that this list changes day to day.

Glad you are enjoying the area.
By lm610
From: Nottingham
Jul 11, 2011
added new area review Stanage Popular and Stanage Plantation

gachieve.blogspot.com/
By devilesslover
Sep 8, 2012
Fantastic idea, one question; Portland and Swanage are completely missed out... Sites of international importance for rock climbing (with more climbs that the list you've got for the whole of England already), will they be included in the near future? As an idea this app will only work if it's complete and updated regularly.
Thanks.
Tom.
By devilesslover
Sep 8, 2012
In responce to my previous question I now know why Portland hasn't been added... A) can not rate routes as they are sport routes which are rated mostly in Frrnch rating and B) it would take forever to get all these routes online! I added areas for Portland then sub areas for cheyne wears then further broke it down to the area/crag... Just to get one area on took ages... Tried to list a route and found that it doesn't have an option to change the rating system used.
Don't think this problem is easily solvable but good luck guys.
Tom.
By Nick Russell
Administrator
From: Bristol, UK
Oct 15, 2012
@Devilesslover: the reason they haven't (hadn't) been added is that people haven't got round to doing them yet. As you discovered, anybody can add a route, so all it takes is for a few people who climb regularly in the area to start logging on here after a day's climbing and adding the routes they did that day. As for the grades, I have raised the question on the forums, but for now just go with a conversion table. These are pretty good for going between French sport and YDS, but do break down a bit when it comes to British trad. To give a reliable YDS grade for a trad route, I suppose you have to be familiar with the grading system, and climb the route with that in mind.
By farkas.time
From: Sheffield, SY
Sep 1, 2013
Mountain Project is generally not so great for UK climbing. I add almost every climb I do here, but if you're looking for a more nearly comprehensive list of climbs and areas, see ukclimbing.com. I prefer Mountain Project in layout, but it's just not all there. Develop!
By Nick Russell
Administrator
From: Bristol, UK
Sep 2, 2013
farkas, I am also working on it but it's a slow process! I too prefer the mp format over ukc for route descriptions, but only if done well. I wouldn't want to see a proliferation of 2-line, uninspiring route descriptions!