|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Bob Horan, Skip Guerin, Dick Ciley, 1980|
|Submitted By:||Mike C. Robinson on Mar 21, 2007|
|Comments on Union with Earth||Add Comment|
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From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 22, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
|A 1/2"-3/4" cam might make some feel a little better just before the anchor.|
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Feb 9, 2009
FA Bob Horan, Skip Guerin, Dick Ciley 1980 as per Rossiter.
The roof is exciting--you have to convince yourself that your feet will stick on the very overhanging left wall of the corner. There are a few fun moves up the corner above to reach the anchors on the left. We continued up the upper, left-facing corner/hand crack. That was a bit of a thrutch at 5.8 or 5.9, but well protected.
Rolofson calls this climb 10d and shows 2 bolts excluding the anchors on the 12 to the left. Rossiter calls it 10a and mentions a bolt at the roof and a 2 bolt anchor above the upper, left-facing corner.
There are 4 bolts on the climb itself and no upper anchors. The 3 bolts below the roof can be easily bypassed. There is an excellent gold Camalot at the lip of the roof. I clipped the one bolt above the roof that protects the first move up the corner. That move was tricky but turned out to be relatively easy. Perhaps, with a nut tool and some very minor excavation, there may be a placement for a small wire up there. Or there may be a piece down by your feet.
Since there were no anchors above the upper corner that I could see, I diagonalled way right and up and lowered from a pair of anchors that protects one of the routes on the upper wall.
From: Pinewood Springs
Jan 15, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
|The upper section of the climb was good, the LFace corner crack above the 2 bolt anchor was fun.|