Union with Earth 5.10b/c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Bob Horan, Skip Guerin, Dick Ciley, 1980 |
| Submitted By: | Mike C. Robinson on Mar 21, 2007 |
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Armin Goodin on Union with Earth.
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Description This route leads to Hammer down or you can finish following straight up after the roof. The crux move is pulling the roof (10+). Good route, leads to a bolt anchor about 20 feet after passing the crux.
Protection The route is adequately bolted and the clips are fairly easy to make before committing to any difficult moves.
A big stem and big stretch get you started. The pi...
| The wall my feet are on overhangs a bit! Photo by ...
| I was a little shaky getting stood up. I had expec...
| The upper corner is fun enough, but a big grungy, ...
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| Comments on Union with Earth |
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By Armin From: Arvada, CO Mar 22, 2007 rating: 5.10a/b
| A 1/2"-3/4" cam might make some feel a little better just before the anchor. |
By Ivan Rezucha From: Boulder, CO Feb 9, 2009
| FA Bob Horan, Skip Guerin, Dick Ciley 1980 as per Rossiter. The roof is exciting--you have to convince yourself that your feet will stick on the very overhanging left wall of the corner. There are a few fun moves up the corner above to reach the anchors on the left. We continued up the upper, left-facing corner/hand crack. That was a bit of a thrutch at 5.8 or 5.9, but well protected. Rolofson calls this climb 10d and shows 2 bolts excluding the anchors on the 12 to the left. Rossiter calls it 10a and mentions a bolt at the roof and a 2 bolt anchor above the upper, left-facing corner. There are 4 bolts on the climb itself and no upper anchors. The 3 bolts below the roof can be easily bypassed. There is an excellent gold Camalot at the lip of the roof. I clipped the one bolt above the roof that protects the first move up the corner. That move was tricky but turned out to be relatively easy. Perhaps, with a nut tool and some very minor excavation, there may be a placement for a small wire up there. Or there may be a piece down by your feet. Since there were no anchors above the upper corner that I could see, I diagonalled way right and up and lowered from a pair of anchors that protects one of the routes on the upper wall. |
By Ross From: Pinewood Springs Jan 15, 2012 rating: 5.10b/c
| The upper section of the climb was good, the LFace corner crack above the 2 bolt anchor was fun. |
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