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Midnight Rock
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Karma Chameleon S 
Meltdown S 
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Midnight Express S 
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Stroke of Midnight, The S 
Union with Earth S 
Voila S 
Weather Report S 

Union with Earth 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob Horan, Skip Guerin, Dick Ciley, 1980
Page Views: 397
Submitted By: Mike C. Robinson on Mar 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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I was a little shaky getting stood up. I had expec...

Description 

This route leads to Hammer down or you can finish following straight up after the roof. The crux move is pulling the roof (10+). Good route, leads to a bolt anchor about 20 feet after passing the crux.

Protection 

The route is adequately bolted and the clips are fairly easy to make before committing to any difficult moves.


Photos of Union with Earth Slideshow Add Photo
A big stem and big stretch get you started. The piece protected the crux is a gold Camalot. There's a bolt a little higher, near where my left wrist is. Photo by Ken Parker.
A big stem and big stretch get you started. The pi...
Armin Goodin on Union with Earth.
Armin Goodin on Union with Earth.
The wall my feet are on overhangs a bit! Photo by Ken Parker.
The wall my feet are on overhangs a bit! Photo by ...
The upper corner is fun enough, but a big grungy, and due to the lack of anchors above, perhaps best ignored. Photo by Ken Parker.
The upper corner is fun enough, but a big grungy, ...

Comments on Union with Earth Add Comment
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By Armin
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 22, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

A 1/2"-3/4" cam might make some feel a little better just before the anchor.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Feb 9, 2009

FA Bob Horan, Skip Guerin, Dick Ciley 1980 as per Rossiter.

The roof is exciting--you have to convince yourself that your feet will stick on the very overhanging left wall of the corner. There are a few fun moves up the corner above to reach the anchors on the left. We continued up the upper, left-facing corner/hand crack. That was a bit of a thrutch at 5.8 or 5.9, but well protected.

Rolofson calls this climb 10d and shows 2 bolts excluding the anchors on the 12 to the left. Rossiter calls it 10a and mentions a bolt at the roof and a 2 bolt anchor above the upper, left-facing corner.

There are 4 bolts on the climb itself and no upper anchors. The 3 bolts below the roof can be easily bypassed. There is an excellent gold Camalot at the lip of the roof. I clipped the one bolt above the roof that protects the first move up the corner. That move was tricky but turned out to be relatively easy. Perhaps, with a nut tool and some very minor excavation, there may be a placement for a small wire up there. Or there may be a piece down by your feet.

Since there were no anchors above the upper corner that I could see, I diagonalled way right and up and lowered from a pair of anchors that protects one of the routes on the upper wall.
By Ross
From: Pinewood Springs
Jan 15, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The upper section of the climb was good, the LFace corner crack above the 2 bolt anchor was fun.