Union Jack 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Paul Ross, Ben and Marion Wintringham, Micheal Hartrick, Al Rubin |
| Submitted By: | John Peterson on Aug 24, 2007 |
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Ben and Marion Wintringham on the first ascent.. c...
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Description Just left of Vertigo is another excellent route.
Locate the left facing flake of P2 to determine the location of the route.
P1: (5.6) Up a crack and then left (100')
P2: (5.9) This is the crux - go delicately up and left, aiming for a finger crack / layback that ends in a bulge just below the belay ledge. Exciting! (100')
P3: (5.8) Find an excellent flake up and right from the belay - this leads up about 120' to an excellent ledge below an ominous looking cave / overhang.
Although the guidebook has more pitches (5.7 and then easier), we rapped at this point - the chimney above didn't look very inviting.
Not sure if you can rap on a single 60m rope - we needed 2 50s to get down.
Not as much good climbing as Vertigo but well worth doing.
Location About 15' left of Vertigo.
Protection An extra finger sized cam or two might be nice.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 25, 2007
| i would love to get a description for the rest of the route... |
By John Peterson
Aug 25, 2007
| The guidebook says you go up the 5.7 bombay chimney at the back of the alcove then up a 5.6 crack to easier ground. Can't vouch for this since I haven't done it though. It appeared that the majority of climbers on the route bailed after P3. |
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Mar 24, 2009
| Union Jack is definitely not as classic as Vertigo, but it's worth doing nonetheless. I thought it was a bit generic, compared to other Cannon climbs. |
By Goodhue
From: Boulder, CO
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.9
| From the top of the 4th class after the third pitch, I climbed underneath the overhanging chimney. Started on the left side of the face, clipped a fix pin, and traversed right on good but sketchy holds, with a nasty fall potention (R?). Then up into the chimney which wasn't as hard as it looked.
From the top of the chimney you can go right up a short 3"-4" crack and you will shortly be at a bolted rap station. Or...you can do what we did and find a way more or less straight up, pulling 5.8 handcracks and get to another ledge with a bail anchor and rap from there. I may have been off route here...Meh. |
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