Uninspiring Wall  5.5

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.5 [details] FA:  Steve Wunch, 1970 Submitted By:  Clint Locks on May 25, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Approach this route from the Wind Tower trail. Where the East Slabs Descent trail intersects, take that (to the NW/left). You gotta commit to a pretty boulder-y section under the overhang of lower-Hawk Eagle, but there are good holds for the 4 moves it takes to pull up onto a short slab. Above, cut right from the East Slabs trail to the vague, overgrown 'trail' that goes along the base of HE Ridge.

As the ridge becomes vertical, find a large, left-facing dihedral/ramp below a large tree. Look 20 yards up from that. Uninspiring Wall climbs a left-facing layback section to a face, and into a small roof. Pull that, (or 'cheese-out' and pass it on the right). The climb ends with a short slab and a mantle onto the ridge-top.

For now, no real staging area exists for Uninspiring Wall. The base is very sloping, with loose soil and vegetation. There's a place in the beginning layback for 2 small nuts to use for a belay anchor, if you so desire.

It's short, fun, and a great way to introduce climbers to roofs.Passive gear is a good idea, as some of the rock is a bit 'crunchy'.

Protection 

It's tempting to use the huge blocks to the right of the exit for an anchor. If you feel good about that, go for it, but I found them to be just too hollow-sounding to trust.As a good alternative, there's a tree at the top of the route. That works well for a primary anchor. There's also a slot for a small nut to the left of the tree to work as a back-up.

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Debbie on Uninspiring Wall.