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Begin near where the road meets the wall on slabby orange rock; the climb is easily identified by an obvious hand-sized hueco and a mono about 50 up. Thin moves off the deck lead to rests on some tufas out right. Then things get steep. Follow tufas and then jugs until you can traverse up and left to the chain anchor on Tufalero, but do not clip this anchor. Instead, bust up and back right past two more well-spaced clips to two stalactites and the anchor. This pitch has been called 5.13a but I thought it was more in the mid-twelve range; either way, great climbing.
A dozen or so draws.
By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Feb 21, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
This route is absolutely stunning. One of the best climbs I've ever done. The grading is a little confusing though cause its 13a in guidebook, the main developers topo says 12b and the locals say 12+. Who knows probably 13a in colorado were I climb. But 12+ anywere else, feels significantly harder than body grooving a 12c in the area.