Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Doc Holiday Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Doc's Holiday 
Far Beyond Driven 
Loose Women, Loose Rock 
Pistol Pete 
Quick on the Draw 
Skyline Pillar 
Unforgiven 

Unforgiven 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Chris Miller, Pete Paredes and Chuck Scott, 7/01
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 769
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 21, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Pete starting up Unforgiven (5.11b), Holcomb Valle...

Description 

Head up past the starts of Pistol Pete and Doc's Holiday and then scramble atop a block to gain the start of this route.

Lieback a large, left-facing flake past two bolts which pinches down a bit higher forming a small roof. Clip the 3rd bolt and then fire over the roof (5.11) on slick edges until possible to gain the security of a finger slot. From here climb the right arete/face of the formation (5.9) past two bolts to anchors on a ledge.

Good moves on this route but lacking the continuous nature of the routes further left it's not quite a classic.


Protection 

6 bolts, chain anchors



Photos of Unforgiven Slideshow Add Photo
Zak bests his first 11B!
Zak bests his first 11B!
I'd like to think it was more of a stalemate than a failure.
I'd like to think it was more of a stalemate than ...
Photo topo for Doc Holiday Wall, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.
BETA PHOTO: Photo topo for Doc Holiday Wall, Holcomb Valley Pi...
Comments on Unforgiven Add Comment
Show which comments
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 3, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Difficult moves with long reaches and committing. Hard for the grade IMO.

~Susan

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Ok, tried it again a year later. The thing is still hard getting past the 3rd bolt. Key holds are there but difficult to release to get them without falling. Harder than it looks.

Nonetheless I got the rope to the anchor. Next time, no hanging at the crux.

This route is a classic example on how it only takes one move to dictate the grade. The bottom & top sections are significantly easier to ascend.

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 2, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

Tricky bouldery crux, with an annoying dead bush in your face right as you finish the sequence. Battle the remanants of the bush for a move or two with bad feet then it's a stroll to the top. Good route that suffers a bit from its non-continuous nature and malevolent deceased flora. 2/5 stars for the area. Compared to other ratings in the area, I'd say it's on the stiff side, but the area as a whole feels a tad soft, so maybe just call it "5.11".

By tom donnelly
Jun 22, 2010

If you contrive to stay left of the bush, it adds a bit better climbing on the upper part.

By RAZORsharp
From: Carlsbad CA
Oct 12, 2011

There used to be a loose as hell, big flake near the anchors with a notorious red x on it.... It is gone. watch for loose/uncleaned lines that are chalked up!