Unforgiven 5.11b
| 641 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Chris Miller, Pete Paredes and Chuck Scott, 7/01 |
| Season: | Spring - Fall |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Mar 21, 2006 |
| |
Zak bests his first 11B!
Add Photo Printer View
Description Head up past the starts of Pistol Pete and Doc's Holiday and then scramble atop a block to gain the start of this route. Lieback a large, left-facing flake past two bolts which pinches down a bit higher forming a small roof. Clip the 3rd bolt and then fire over the roof (5.11) on slick edges until possible to gain the security of a finger slot. From here climb the right arete/face of the formation (5.9) past two bolts to anchors on a ledge. Good moves on this route but lacking the continuous nature of the routes further left it's not quite a classic.
Protection 6 bolts, chain anchors
BETA PHOTO: Photo topo for Doc Holiday Wall, Holcomb Valley Pi...
| I'd like to think it was more of a stalemate than ...
| Pete starting up Unforgiven (5.11b), Holcomb Valle...
| | | |
By susan peplow From: Joshua Tree Mar 3, 2007 rating: 5.11c
| Difficult moves with long reaches and committing. Hard for the grade IMO. ~Susan |
By susan peplow From: Joshua Tree Jun 1, 2008 rating: 5.11c
| Ok, tried it again a year later. The thing is still hard getting past the 3rd bolt. Key holds are there but difficult to release to get them without falling. Harder than it looks. Nonetheless I got the rope to the anchor. Next time, no hanging at the crux. This route is a classic example on how it only takes one move to dictate the grade. The bottom & top sections are significantly easier to ascend. |
By Will S From: Joshua Tree Jun 2, 2008 rating: 5.11
| Tricky bouldery crux, with an annoying dead bush in your face right as you finish the sequence. Battle the remanants of the bush for a move or two with bad feet then it's a stroll to the top. Good route that suffers a bit from its non-continuous nature and malevolent deceased flora. 2/5 stars for the area. Compared to other ratings in the area, I'd say it's on the stiff side, but the area as a whole feels a tad soft, so maybe just call it "5.11". |
By tom donnelly Jun 22, 2010
| If you contrive to stay left of the bush, it adds a bit better climbing on the upper part. |
By RAZORsharp From: Carlsbad CA Oct 12, 2011
| There used to be a loose as hell, big flake near the anchors with a notorious red x on it.... It is gone. watch for loose/uncleaned lines that are chalked up! |
|