Unforgiven  5.9+

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Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Chris Begue, Liz Cannon, 2002 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Vince Romney on Jan 1, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: View from the start of Unforgiven

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Description 

I climbed this the day Chris put it up, and provided my meager input on the rating. We both agreed it sat at 5.9+, with only one move justifying the +. The route almost exactly follows a line from bolt to bolt, so don't meander much or you'll end up on another route. Start about 15' left of the small corner and roof that make up the first section of "I Think I'm Going Bald" (approximately 50' east of the west-most line of bolts on Dogwood). Ascend the slick face via good holds up and right to the first bolt. From this stance, look directly above you and the line of bolts becomes evident. Move up increasingly delicate and balancy moves past the third bolt where the climbing becomes significantly easier. As with most of the Dogwood climbs, walking off is often preferable to a rap into the creek. Not a bad little route, and the most stout of the moderates on this crag. The real evil lurkes further east.

Protection 

Six quickdraws reach the belay chains.

Photos of Unforgiven Slideshow

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Steve on "unforgiven"