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 ADVANCED
Dogwood Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Modest Man from Mandrake 
Ain't no Party, Ain't no Disco 
Cross-Eyed and Painless 
Drunken Crack 
Haven't A Clue 
Hyper-Gamma Spaces 
I Think I'm Going Bald 
Life During Wartime 
Lion of Zion, The 
Little Creatures 
Little Critters 
Little Things 
On the Skids 
Quartzite and Stainless 
Take Me To The River 
Unforgiven 
Unknown west of Mandrake 
Unknown west of Take Me to the River 

Unforgiven 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type: Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chris Begue, Liz Cannon, 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,118
Submitted By: Vince Romney on Jan 1, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: View from the start of Unforgiven

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Description 

I climbed this the day Chris put it up, and provided my meager input on the rating. We both agreed it sat at 5.9+, with only one move justifying the +. The route almost exactly follows a line from bolt to bolt, so don't meander much or you'll end up on another route. Start about 15' left of the small corner and roof that make up the first section of "I Think I'm Going Bald" (approximately 50' east of the west-most line of bolts on Dogwood). Ascend the slick face via good holds up and right to the first bolt. From this stance, look directly above you and the line of bolts becomes evident. Move up increasingly delicate and balancy moves past the third bolt where the climbing becomes significantly easier. As with most of the Dogwood climbs, walking off is often preferable to a rap into the creek. Not a bad little route, and the most stout of the moderates on this crag. The real evil lurkes further east.


Protection 

Six quickdraws reach the belay chains.



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By Nathan Fisher
Oct 10, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Very consistent climb. A great line, in fact the best line on that right/west side of the crag. Although you can tell that the FA was over 6 foot.

By Lucas J Matthews
Sep 21, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This climb had fewer bolts than expected. I imagine it was bolted on lead and certainly ball a tall person. If you're skiddish on slab, get comfortable before leading this. It is surprisingly run out at times. (Although, I imagine a small rack would solve that problem).

By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 18, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Fun climb, a bit unnerving for some reason though. Slick, water polished holds and foot placements where you end up trusting some smears. Very cool and shady for a large portion of the day.