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The Apron
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Bannana Peel 
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Bottom Line, The 
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Dances with Pigs 
Dessert Dike 
Diamondback 
Diedre 
Dream Symphony 
Edge of Anxiety 
Granville Street 
Great Arch, The 
Karen's Math 
Memorial Crack 
One Scoop with Delicious Dimples 
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Rock On 
Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) 
Sickle 
Slab Alley 
Snake 
South Arete 
Sparrow 
St. Vitus' Dance 
Start From Scratch 
Teetering on the Brink of Madness 
Unfinished Symphony 
Vector 

Unfinished Symphony 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 6 pitches, 800'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Season: Quick to Dry
Page Views: 2,120
Submitted By: Scott W on Mar 17, 2008
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Homemade bolts for sure...and not very new...

Description 

This is one of the better routes in Squamish, it follows up a two 5.9/10a pitches, then back to back 10d layback pitches with a mix of bolts and gear(small tech very useful). Then a 5.11b slab, very well bolted throughout the crux, then the bolts turn a little homemade and well spaced for the last 30 feet, though significantly easier than the crux. Classic!!!


Location 

This is the next corner left of Dedre, it can by found via the same approach, but stopping 100 feet shy of the Dedre starting slab. Follow a ramp up and left to the first pitch 5.7.


Protection 

Rack of cams up to 1", double up on small stuff up to a yellow alien.



Photos of Unfinished Symphony Slideshow Add Photo
2nd 10d pitch
2nd 10d pitch
5.9 Corner, before the business
5.9 Corner, before the business
The Crux
The Crux
Simon following the fourth pitch (10a) of Unfinished Symphony.
Simon following the fourth pitch (10a) of Unfinish...
Comments on Unfinished Symphony Add Comment
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By tradcragrat
Aug 21, 2008

The crux pitch has been retro-bolted; formerly it featured bad bolts on 5.10-ish terrain, it is now safe. There are, however, some difficult clips in the very thin crux section. The 10d layback pitches require a lot of small gear to protect adequately; there are some bolts on both pitches, but gear is needed in between. An alternate start links up the first two pitches of "Dirty White Boys" to join the route at the third pitch. Note that if you do the first 5.7 pitch of Snake, it is more than 60 meters so belay after the section of ledge scrambling. Awesome route with beautiful climbing.

By Scott W
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 22, 2011

I confirm, the last slab pitch is retro bolted, very safe now and way less of head game than it was previously. A little sad as it takes the excitement down a lot=(