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Slab Alley T,S 
Snake T 
South Arete T 
Sparrow T 
St. Vitus' Dance T 
Start From Scratch T 
Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 
Unfinished Symphony T,S 
Vector T 
White Lightning T 

Unfinished Symphony 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 6 pitches, 800'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
Season: Quick to Dry
Page Views: 2,622
Submitted By: Scott W on Mar 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Homemade bolts for sure...and not very new...


This is one of the better routes in Squamish, it follows up a two 5.9/10a pitches, then back to back 10d layback pitches with a mix of bolts and gear(small tech very useful). Then a 5.11b slab, very well bolted throughout the crux, then the bolts turn a little homemade and well spaced for the last 30 feet, though significantly easier than the crux. Classic!!!


This is the next corner left of Dedre, it can by found via the same approach, but stopping 100 feet shy of the Dedre starting slab. Follow a ramp up and left to the first pitch 5.7.


Rack of cams up to 1", double up on small stuff up to a yellow alien.

Photos of Unfinished Symphony Slideshow Add Photo
2nd 10d pitch
2nd 10d pitch
5.9 Corner, before the business
5.9 Corner, before the business
The Crux
The Crux
Simon following the fourth pitch (10a) of Unfinish...
Simon following the fourth pitch (10a) of Unfinish...

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By tradcragrat
Aug 21, 2008

The crux pitch has been retro-bolted; formerly it featured bad bolts on 5.10-ish terrain, it is now safe. There are, however, some difficult clips in the very thin crux section. The 10d layback pitches require a lot of small gear to protect adequately; there are some bolts on both pitches, but gear is needed in between. An alternate start links up the first two pitches of "Dirty White Boys" to join the route at the third pitch. Note that if you do the first 5.7 pitch of Snake, it is more than 60 meters so belay after the section of ledge scrambling. Awesome route with beautiful climbing.
By Scott W
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 22, 2011

I confirm, the last slab pitch is retro bolted, very safe now and way less of head game than it was previously. A little sad as it takes the excitement down a lot=(
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 12, 2015

FA: first three pitches: Jim Baldwin, Hamish Mutch, 1962. To Broadway ledge: Fred Beckey, Jim Sinclair, 1967. FFA: Peter Croft, Tami Knight, 1979
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