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Unfinished Symphony 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Ross Harwick, Joe Herbst, Andre Langenbach '78
Page Views: 831
Submitted By: beny on Feb 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Unfinished Symphony is a great line for an offwidth enthusiast. And even for someone wanting to practice the wide stuff, this is a good line: the cracks are featured and protect well. Pitches 1/2 and 3/4 link easily with 60m cords.

P1: Start on blocky, broken rock beneath the open book feature. Climb up on varied rock, passing ledges to a ledge with slings left of the crack. 5.9, 90 ft.

P2: Step back right to the corner and climb up to a low angled ramp below a steeper wide crack. Belay here. 5.8, 70 ft.

P3: Climb up the wide crack above, passing a roof and ending at a small ledge with two bolts. Great pitch. 5.8, 80 ft.

P4: The fun continues up a squeeze chimney/wide crack with good holds to get to low angled rock beneath a wide roof crack. Sling belay. 5.8, 90 ft.

P5: The good stuff. Climb up to the steepish crack and struggle out the slightly flaring wide crack. It narrows back to hands after 20 feet of wideness. Continue up the corner on looser rock to a chockstone anchor. 5.11c, 120 ft.

Descent: Rap from the top of P5 to the top of P3 (full 60m). Rap from top of P3 to top of P1 (150 ft). Rap 90 ft to the ground.

Notes: The first two pitches are duds, but the upper pitches make up for it. It is possible to climb from the ground to the midpoint of P3 with a 60 m cord. This puts you at a good stance just below the obvious wide roof in the middle of P3. Natural belay off gear from anywhere around yellow met to 5 friend. The crux pitch as 3 bolts. They look less than inspiring and are more in the way than anything. You'll probably curse their installers numerous times as your back and knees scrape against them. They aren't at all needed. Also, the flaring nature of the crack allows for many sizes of cams to fit at the crux, depending on how deep you're willing to place. You probably wouldn't want to push any farther back than a 3 camalot.

Location 

This is the open book on the right side of the Refrigerator Wall.

Protection 

We took a set of cams from 1 camalot to 5 friend with doubles of 4 and 5 friend. Also, we took a yellow and red met tcu with 4 or 5 nuts. If i did it again, i wouldn't take the extra 4 and 5. They aren't necessary. However, if you're not a confident wide crack climber, you may want to add a 6 inch piece for the 5.8, 5.9 pitches. The anchors on this route are less than stellar. I get the feeling this route doesn't see a lot of traffic, so you may want to bring a few leaver biners and extra slingage.


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By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Mar 20, 2011

nice post, i always thought this route was o.b. for me but i think i'll try it now, thanks!