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B-52 T 
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Mettle Detector T 
Parachute Woman T 
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Unfinished Concerto T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Unfinished Concerto 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Peter Farrah, Henry Foreshipps
Page Views: 4,507
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Apr 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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perfect fall climbing day


Unfinished Concerto provides the meat of the route in the first pitch - nice crack climbing to a very balancy mantel on to a ledge with bolts. From here, 2-3 pitches of easier climbing takes you to the Gemini Rappel Anchors. Double ropes are needed to rap to Sentry Box ledge and one single rope rappel (or down climb) gets you to the ground.


Located on a tree covered ledge to the left of Rat's Ass and Second Coming. Look for the great hand size crack on the first pitch.


Standard NC rack. Double ropes, long runners.

Photos of Unfinished Concerto Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing crux
BETA PHOTO: Nearing crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the crux
Starting the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 start.  You can just see the 'block' as you pul...
BETA PHOTO: P1 start. You can just see the 'block' as you pul...
Rock Climbing Photo: P2

Comments on Unfinished Concerto Add Comment
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By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Jan 30, 2009

Look out for snakes at the base. I've come across copperheads a couple times and heard tell of rattlers too!
By munkeybog
From: Columbia, SC
Oct 24, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The bolts on pitch 1 should be moved 100'+ higher.
There is a splitter at the top of P1.
P2 is totally worthy.
Rap rings would service Fat Dog to Rat's Ass. Sentry Box?
All without adding a single bolt. But then again.... let's encourage toproping an obvious multipitch climb.
By Trevor Shu
Feb 9, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

…or get rid of the bolts altogether, I hear "There is a splitter at the top of P1". What are those bolts even for?
By b.t.miller
From: Charlotte, NC
May 5, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A terrific route! It starts off with a very nice less-than-vertical splitter.

Personally found the crux to be pretty darn hard and saw at least two options post crux : 1). stay in dihedral above crux block. 2). stay on face climber's right of dihedral and balance up the face. I sent option #2 and felt the face was very "P2-Sundial" like. Balance and smear with little to no hands.

P2 of UFC is quick. P2 isn't special for sure, but if you setup a belay after running out all the rope, you can quickly traverse over about 90' to upper Gemini rap station (let's call that P3 but you're traversing the entire time). A TWO 60M rope rap will land you on Sentry Box Ledge. Remember those rope-end knots.
By Kevin Sparks
Mar 22, 2015

The first ascent was by Peter Farrell and Henry Florschutz, both Duke students at the time. All passive, nut protection, since cams did not exist widely in 1977! I mentioned their names to Buddy Price, who evidently did his best to recall them in later writings, but erred somewhat. A very bold route for the time.

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