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South Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bat's Ass 
Bloody Crack 
Catch Me Now I'm Falling 
Chaos Out of Control 
Dinkus Dog 
Fat Dog 
First Return 
Gemini Crack 
Good Intentions 
Left Up 
Lichen or Not 
Mettle Detector 
Parachute Woman 
Rat's Ass 
Right Up 
Second Coming 
Short Man's Sorrow 
Unfinished Concerto 
Unsorted Routes:

Unfinished Concerto 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Peter Farrah, Henry Foreshipps
Page Views: 3,112
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Apr 23, 2007
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perfect fall climbing day
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>


Unfinished Concerto provides the meat of the route in the first pitch - nice crack climbing to a very balancy mantel on to a ledge with bolts. From here, 2-3 pitches of easier climbing takes you to the Gemini Rappel Anchors. Double ropes are needed to rap to Sentry Box ledge and one single rope rappel (or down climb) gets you to the ground.


Located on a tree covered ledge to the left of Rat's Ass and Second Coming. Look for the great hand size crack on the first pitch.


Standard NC rack. Double ropes, long runners.

Photos of Unfinished Concerto Slideshow Add Photo
Starting the crux
Starting the crux
P1 start.  You can just see the 'block' as you pull the bulge into the corner.  Good gear options throughout.
BETA PHOTO: P1 start. You can just see the 'block' as you pul...
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By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Jan 30, 2009

Look out for snakes at the base. I've come across copperheads a couple times and heard tell of rattlers too!

By munkeybog
Oct 24, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

The bolts on pitch 1 should be moved 100'+ higher.
There is a splitter at the top of P1.
P2 is totally worthy.
Rap rings would service Fat Dog to Rat's Ass. Sentry Box?
All without adding a single bolt. But then again.... let's encourage toproping an obvious multipitch climb.

By Trevor Shumaker
From: Western North Carolina
Feb 9, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

…or get rid of the bolts altogether, I hear "There is a splitter at the top of P1". What are those bolts even for?